Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 291
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All parts are ready for pickup, most of you who are picking up would have been contacted, if not PM me.

Some parts have been damaged during shipping and I am currently trying to get a replacement sent. Damaged parts include:

- R34 Eyelids

- EG Spoon Lip

- ONE pair S2000 Side skirts extension

- S15 interior replacement

- GTT Cooling Panel

- R32 weathershields

Those who have ordered the bits that have been listed damaged above, will be contacted shortly later on. Those who require shipping, have been or will be PMed the total outstanding amount and shipping cost.

picked up my items yesterday. not too bad. took some photos for you guys.... hopefully fitment is pretty good.

I would have thought that the headlight intake would have had tabs on both sides but there isn't. We'll see how it goes when I try and fit it on and see how it goes on the track.

20130121_153014.jpg

20130121_153035.jpg

20130121_153046.jpg

not much to say about the coilpack cover. looks ok. hopefully the holes line up ok.

20130121_153153.jpg

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?45280-dmax-s15-roof-wing-help

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyl...-roof-wing-help

Thanks I will have a crack at it again sometime this week and when its all done will post up some photos. Might get some different stronger sikaflex too and try that out. Was using 227.

Will be doing your order soon plats, packing it properly and securely is the main problem right now. Do-able, though I'm making about 15 custom boxes from flat cardboards that won't crush, which is a pain. Got a few of the 33 grills out.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

you just cut them off?

you just cut them off?

Yup i removed all 4 tabs. The top ones can probably be left on but the bottom ones have to go. As each grills tabs will probably slightly different angle/width i suggest you assess which ones need removing.

I found it easiest remove all 4 as i can then place the grill how i want it and not have the tabs restricting me.

The back tabs can be cut off with a dremel / wire cutters / flower cutter basically anything with a sharp blade and handles has the tabs are fiberglass and wont be hard to cut through.

Edited by DarkRyda

forgive me for being dumb here, but if you removed all the tabs how did you fit it man?????!

Imagination and creativity =).

I drilled 4 holes at the back, two at the top of the grill where the tabs used to be and another two at the bottom next to the mesh screws. Then you zip-tie the grill to the headlight. Placement of the holes and the Zip-ties are most important or it wont fit properly.

You could also go to bunnings and get 2 U-Shaped brackets bot 1 on each side and attach that to the headlights. With doing this the U brackets must be the correct size or the grill will stick out to much. The ziptie option is probably the easiest and cheapest.

Wow dude you car is porn. What rims are you running?

Thank you. PM sent as this question is off-topic

cool. mines a white car so itll stand out like a bitch if it dont fit

The fitment is good pretty much perfect if you install it correctly.

Btw don't bother trying to zip tie it from the mesh it wrecks the mesh and doesn't align properly, so save yourself the trouble as I tried it and it didn't work at all.

Just a note the mesh comes silver I painted mine matte black with a satin clear. Maybe since your car is white silver mesh would look better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...