Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb R34 Gt-R V-Spec/vsii Genuine Buyer Money Ready


Recommended Posts

fatz - what are the most common places for rust that you've seen so far? Chassis rails? Underneath boot carpet?

I'd assume he was referring to R32s. I don't think R34s will have much rust on them form my experience. But nearly every r32 GTR has fair bit of rust on firewall, strut tower, bottom of the rear wheel arch and underbody.

  • Replies 132
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1.

I've also seen a large quantity of rusty ones out there.

When I get a chance later tonight, I'll show you the underbody of a fresh import BB R34 that I saw shortly after I bought mine. You'll love it.

R34 are commonly prone to rust around the rear boot brake light, I've also seen rust around the strut tower welds, window seals etc.

I believe the original Japanese location of the car will obviously also play a significant part to how exposed it was to salt.

Good thread, however maybe should be split in two parts and the bulk moved to the general discussion area and the other moved to WTB?

As above, found a few of those BB R34 GTR underbody pics.

Attached below out of interest.

photo4jd.jpg

photo5oa.jpg

photo3bl.jpg

photo2ll.jpg

photo1wc.jpg

Edited by iwanta34gtr

+1.

I've also seen a large quantity of rusty ones out there.

When I get a chance later tonight, I'll show you the underbody of a fresh import BB R34 that I saw shortly after I bought mine. You'll love it.

R34 are commonly prone to rust around the rear boot brake light, I've also seen rust around the strut tower welds, window seals etc.

I believe the original Japanese location of the car will obviously also play a significant part to how exposed it was to salt.

Good thread, however maybe should be split in two parts and the bulk moved to the general discussion area and the other moved to WTB?

Hey Mate,

I have no issues with people discussing, I have been getting good feedback from this thread regarding cars that aren't even advertised yet that people are looking to sell.

If mod's want to close or move it I have no issues either.

^^

Wow that looks like absolute crap ! Rather typical of a vehicle thats spent its entire life in the snowy regions of Japan

yea i think the less time spent in japan the better!

mine was imported in June 2000! was only about 1 year old, and cost the first aus owner a fortune, but had to move it on to make room for another car to add to his collection, and the gtr was the cheapest car he had ha. still sold it in 2004 for over 90k to the owner before me...

yea i think the less time spent in japan the better!

mine was imported in June 2000! was only about 1 year old, and cost the first aus owner a fortune, but had to move it on to make room for another car to add to his collection, and the gtr was the cheapest car he had ha. still sold it in 2004 for over 90k to the owner before me...

Ha funny you mention that.. I was flicking through one of my mates collections of receipts on his silver 34R Vspec after he bought it and he pointed out the purchase details on the car from the first owner in Aus during the early 2000's which from memory was somewhere around the $110,000 mark !!

Good to see that they have come within affordable price range yet still kept their value rather well despite their age. Look at E46 M3's which are newer than our Japanese counter parts, where ALOT more expensive once upon a time and these days available for under 35k with no dramas. Got to love BMW depreciation :P

Edited by nomnomv8

when these guys bought the cars over in 2000 i dont think they could get them registered either?...

mine wasnt actually complied untill 2002 haha..

As above, found a few of those BB R34 GTR underbody pics.

Attached below out of interest.

photo4jd.jpg

Wow. That's appalling! Bet you walked out of there pretty fast!

Droooooooooool

1999 Bayside Blue BNR34-V-SPEC/NUR

48,597.52 AUD

http://www.global-au...dat&model=BNR34

It has a blue build plate dude, prettty sure thats not a Nur.

+ 95k on a Nismo cluster. Happy days indeed.

^ After actually reading the ad, it does say the car had a Nur engine installed < 3000KM ago.

So if you do go and persue this one, I recommend you check it has the 24U stamp on the block to ensure its not just a standard 26 with the covers painted.

^ After actually reading the ad, it does say the car had a Nur engine installed < 3000KM ago.

So if you do go and persue this one, I recommend you check it has the 24U stamp on the block to ensure its not just a standard 26 with the covers painted.

Thanks mate for clearing that up... I'm slowing learning about the 34's.

It's a new learning experience as I'm comming from a Toyota background.

Could have been an M spec Nur from the front end (no bonnet scoop), but seats and a bunch of other stuff in the other photos say no.

You don't even need to look further once you see the front end. No scoop on bonnet, so it's just VSpec.

All late 2000+ bayside blue = bayside blue engine bay.

Earlier = black, which is standard gtr and vspec.

Hehe since everyone here is discussing r34 gtrs, I will break the ice here. I actually like series 3 R33 GTR, in KN6 colour. And series 3 R33 GTRs are actually much rarer than R34s. Just saying :)

I'd assume he was referring to R32s. I don't think R34s will have much rust on them form my experience. But nearly every r32 GTR has fair bit of rust on firewall, strut tower, bottom of the rear wheel arch and underbody.

Iwas talking r 34 gtrs... Mind u 32 are far worse

Picks above say it all, easy check is the rear sub frame they surface rust first, then it's the sills then the rear end

I think earlier in this thread someone mentioned a mp2 v spec (that sold 1 year ago)that when i checked it out you could put a finger through the floor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...