Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my first skyline(r33 gtst s2) the other month and was impressed with the performance and overall car, i got it 100% stock so i put in a KN pannel filter next i got some yellow jacket coils and new spark plugs( NGK iridiumi BKR6EIX-11) car was running fine then i fit the plugs and coils and car was running rough as and would misfire after 4000RPM so i thought it might be the coils i put the old ones back in and it was fine at idel but still missfires at 4000rpm.

Can someone help a newbie out?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408905-problems-with-r33/
Share on other sites

Sounds like plug gap. Gap the plugs down to about 0.8mm and the misfire should dissapear. Iridium plugs are not the best for forced induction. They have a really small contact point and a large plug gap the spark phsyically blows away from the electrode under revs and boost. So gap them down or go back to 0.9 on a standard ngk. Ive used standard ngk in cars making over 800hp.

Regards

Drews performance

  • 1 month later...

Looks Like everyone ditched ya lol

Diagnosing problems can be a pain in the arse but half the time its process of elimination.

And thats the easy part.

ask yourself these questions.

did you get it past 4000rpm when you first drove it or before you installed the plugs and coils?

the problem could of been there before you brought it.

If thats not the case then something you put on the car is giving you trouble,its to coincedental.

Get a mate rev it to 4grand and do the ol' disconect a coil at a time test to see which cylinder is playing up

that will give you a leg to stand on.

you have set the gap and 100% sure you have the right spark plugs?

then its not them,you didnt say if the coils are brand new if they arnt test the resistance with a DMM

also maybe ur air filter is in the wrong way haha.

if the prob is fixed let me know what it was :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...