Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys

i just bought a r34 last sat its pretty much stock standed execpt for a hks bov.

im looking to buy a front mount intercooler kit to fit my r34 gtt with out much mods.

ive seen some on ebay for abt 350 ? is it a good idea to buy it from their ?

what are some things i should know or look out for be for buying one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408925-intercooler-kits/
Share on other sites

Check Plazaman's cooler kits. they cost bit more but they are very good at heat exchange. Had one on 24psi and the cool side end tank remain cold through out the dyno tune. Wither some of the cheap return flows coolers turned burning hot after couple of runs.

Get TBE 1st before FMIC, & as for FMIC I would just get the just jap black return flow one as it bolts using the stock pipe locations without having to cut holes & its stealthy...

But if you are not going to run more boost than stock, I wouldn't bother with a FMIC at this stage.

Go to a truck wreckers, buy one of the 900 x 600 coolers from a scania.

Take it to a workshop and get it cut down to 3 x 300 x 600 coolers.

Get some end tanks made up for them with no flow testing what so ever.

Get soem custom piping made up from mild steel cause it's just as good.

Polish the end tanks with Autosol for hektik shine.

Hack up your front bar to fit the cooler.

Sell the other 2 coolers left from the cut down truck core for profit.

Edit. Shit sorry. For some reason I woke up thinking it was 1998 today.

Edited by TTT

truck coolers actually flow too much, being the fact that the air travels too fast throught the core to cool it effectively, ebay coolers are fantastic for the price have use them on customers and my own cars from 300-800hp with back to back dyno full power tuining runs with consistant IAT's,

regards

Drews Performance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
×
×
  • Create New...