Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I know this has been discussed in a few thread before, I'd just like some help identifying something.

Occassionally I get a high pitched squeal or whine from somewhere under the bonnet, hardly happens, I found downshifting into third or second and giving the car a bit of juice in high rev (3500 - 4000 rpm) and full boost makes the noise last for a second or so.

It's quite hard to replicate. Anyway from a few threads I have read people are recommending checking the turbo exhaust manifold etc for loose bolts and such.

I've taken off the turbo heat shield and not sure what to check. Most of the bolts were pretty tight already, I did notice that there was a bolt missing on the manifold and I'm not sure if there was an existing bolt there or not? Anyway I half screwed in a bolt in there to see, took the car for a spin, couldn't get the car to re-create the noise however I didn't notice a small chirp in second gear that may have been it starting.

Anyway, see the pic below. Is there anything in the pic I need to check, and should there be a bolt in the spot I marked?

turbobd.jpg

that bolt is nothing...it just holds the heat shield on

when mine started squealing it was the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold (the one you can see in your picture actually as well as another one)...I tightened it with my hand and it was good again for a bit...

just feel around the turbo and manifold bolts to see if any are loose...

Had a mates car do that and it was a tiny split in a cooler hose (was the elbow under the turbo from

Memory) it would only do it under full boost and the split was really hard to find.... Long shot but I you don't find the other issues then it's worth a look :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Mine did this a while back, ended up being a intake gasket..

sorry, was that the gasket between intake manifold and the engine head or the gasket between the parts of the manifold itself? pardon my English, I'm from Russia))

Squealing is from tight or loose belts African Americanachi. Have a good feel of your visible belts. Maybe lay of the maccas. It could be your wife complaining. Mine does. Its a high pitched squeal the whole way there until her fat cake hole get filled. Nah kidding, she is a beautiful 5"10' 26 yro bitch! Or loosen your cam belt. But dont do that cos you dont know what the f**k you are doing.

same problem for a while things ive checked on inlet side cos that's where its coming from.the noise starts at about 7psi

manifold gasket.

disconnected factory boost gauge sender.

checked intercooler joiners for pin holes.

checked hoses for splits as this has happen be for to me.

even had a smoke test twice.

the only thing left for me is the pvc valve and hoses to the pvc

its a split hose some where i think cos it needs some psi be for forced open and whistle

Squealing is from tight or loose belts African Americanachi. Have a good feel of your visible belts. Maybe lay of the maccas. It could be your wife complaining. Mine does. Its a high pitched squeal the whole way there until her fat cake hole get filled. Nah kidding, she is a beautiful 5"10' 26 yro bitch! Or loosen your cam belt. But dont do that cos you dont know what the f**k you are doing.

epic post +1 Like

I had pretty much the same problem as you have. I had checked all the gaskets and still could not find the leak. It was also happening at 7psi and above. I had replaced all my vac hoses & all new clamps. Finnally I made this up and found the leak in about 5 mins.

Remove your intake from the front of the turbo, Attach the hose with valve to the front of the turbo, pump up using compressor. (no more than 10 psi) You should be able to hear the leak.

(Engine off, It will not hold pressure long. Just enough to find the leak)

Parts used to make this are

1 right angled silicone pipe from old stock intercooler pipes (or from any auto store)

1 screw in tyre valve

2 hose clamps

1 plastic pvc end cap (bought from a plumbimg store)

post-31128-0-39939900-1349689660_thumb.jpg

Edited by newboost
  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...