Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my pride and joy for expressing of interest at this moment. 1993 model in Burgundy colour.

KMs: 113000kms.

Mods:

2860-5 turbos

Walbro fuel pump

Nismo 600cc injectors

splitfire coilpacks

HKS camgears

grex oil cooler

Trust oil sump.

tomei oil restrictors

Power FC with hand controller

HKS boost controller

Extreme twin plate clutch

Original Nismo seats in perfect condition.

Alloy radiator.

Custom made oil catch can by Silverwater Automotive

Carbon shielded airbox

Nismo N1 headlights with HID kit installed.

Brand new Optima AGM dry cell battery with 800cca just put in.

HPI clear timing belt cover.

Braided water and oil lines on turbos.

Atezza switch between AWD and RWD

The bad:

Dash light is on and off which might be bad connection behind. I haven't really had time to take it out to check.

No A/C, condensor was taken out to fit the large oil cooler.

The car is in very good condition for an r32. Not a single bit of rust underbody, in the boot or in the engine bay, or even on any panels. Interior wise, a little wear and tear on steering wheel and shift boot. Dash condition is immaculate with absolutely no bubbles on the passenger side. Car is dead straight and drives dead straight.

Power: 330awkw @ 21psi on high boost

309awkw @ 19psi on low boost

Note: Power made with gtr AFMs. But they are at their max so Z32 AFMs are the option for more power out of this setup.

No asking price as this is a pure EOI. Offers are welcome.

Photos:

Photos:

264766_10151013675541121_799001671_n.jpg

319458_10151018188741121_1461797509_n.jpg

377090_10151018189726121_367795330_n.jpg

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409736-syd-1993-r32-gtr-~eoi~/
Share on other sites

Opps forgot to add:

Genuine Bilstein coilovers

Nismo front pipes followed by 3 inch cat back

Large 2 piece front brake rotors (Brand unknown, they came with the car when I bought it)

More technical bit:

Knock: 25-35 shown on FC hand controller on high boost setting

Injector max duty: 68-70% under full power on high boost setting

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34

oops, you also forgot to add the price

read the rules

I don't know if you understand what express of interest means......This isn't an official for sale add so no price needed in the thread.

He is asking $16500 on JDMST.

And I don't know which GTR you are referring to. Read my jdmst thread again and see if there is a price on it....

Did you tell him he's dreaming?

I don't know what dreams you are having but i am certainly awake if you haven't noticed :)

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34

No money owing. No major accidents. The chassis is accident free. I think a couple of panels have been repainted before I purchased the car as we can expect from a r32 gtr this age.

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...