Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum.

On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that.

Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

Why cant you t into the fuel reg hose at the front. thats where mine is.

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

It'll work but if you ever get a leak for whatever reason it'll affect fuel pressure and therefore fuel ratios. Best to leave something so crucial alone and use one of the many other points available, the standard boost gauge nipple is in the perfect spot and is the perfect size too, why wouldn't you use it?

Ah crap time to re route some hoses.

Do the S2 R33s Have a rubber cap on the front intake manifold nipple from factory?

ok, so im 99% sure this is right now lol.

I take the line i've outlined in red out of the sensor (circled in blue). Hook the T up to that, another tube back to the sensor and then the vac line from the gauge to the other end of the T.

20121128_081726-1.jpg

Correct me if i'm wrong.

I dont blame this guy lol, i knew almost nothing about the engine lay out also, and the information given here was helpful but i was a bit reluctant to T into the BOV line.

My boost gauge is still sitting in my glove box, haven't had the balls to cut anything and connect it yet either.

But just to confirm, is whats said in this post and the photo above correct? if i follow this, would the boost gauge work with no troubles from the car 100%?

so, i bought a cheapo gauge from ebay last week.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400336875504?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

how would i be able to tell if it's going to be more accurate than the stock gauge or not? Also has the same style mount you just linked Johnny :)

Speaking of good gauges and accuracy. Does anyone know what the quality of TurboTech's boost gauges are like?

I recently ordered a boost controller from TurboTech (after reading how awesome they were) and it came with a mechanical boost gauge.

Haven't hooked it up yet tho, wanted to know if it's even worth installing first.

Now I assume that they are not their own TurboTech branded boost gauges, that they merely on-sell another brands product packaged in with their own.

I also assume that with all the raving reviews of TurboTech's controllers they wouldn't go jeopardising their great reputation by supplying sub-par accessories; but hey, I might be wrong...

I'm going to assume they're pretty accurate Brad. Like you said, they wouldn't jeopardise their product with something that won't show an accurate (or more accurate than stock) reading.

This might be a very stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyway lol.

I've read around that people test the accuracy of their gauge by using an air compressor.

I don't have an air compressor, but would I be able to use one of those free air hoses at petrol stations to test my gauge?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...