Jump to content
SAU Community

Yellow Jackets Coil Packs For The V35 And V36 - Need Testers!

performance-wise
 Share

Recommended Posts

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

We are about to launch Yellow Jackets Coil packs for the V35 and V36 models and we have just about finished testing them for production.

Traditionally, before I release them to the market, I like to get a few random SAU'ers on board to give my coils some "real-life" testing and I will need testers for each type.

Please post or PM me if you'd be interested. There's a free set of coils in it for any one who can help out. :)

:cheers:

PW

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I don't mind chucking some on my car for you. ATM its a turbo'd VQ35de.

If you really want to give them hell, we can get a few M35 Stagea owners out there to try them- running upto 25psi, and higher under bonnet temps cause of the turbo too. VQ25det are the same coils afaik.

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I have a stock 2005 350gt 6MT that is my daily, and does around 200km of city driving a week. If that suits your test requirements, I am happy to test.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

VQ25det are the same coils afaik.

Same body but different part number, they probably run a higher coil output voltage as I have never found the limits of the stock VQ25det coils.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I could in a few weeks. The issue is, they won't represent how these will work in most peoples VQ engines as I run much colder plugs, 5 times the cylinder pressure and e85.

Btw Alex, the VQ25dd awd gearbox I was having rebuilt has different (weaker) internals, I have to get mine rebuilt as it won't handle the power. More clutches = more boost. :)

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I could in a few weeks. The issue is, they won't represent how these will work in most peoples VQ engines as I run much colder plugs, 5 times the cylinder pressure and e85.

Btw Alex, the VQ25dd awd gearbox I was having rebuilt has different (weaker) internals, I have to get mine rebuilt as it won't handle the power. More clutches = more boost. :)

Its called extreme product testing :P

Talk about never ending gearbox story.... I didn't even know you had a DD gearbox. Auto for drags, manual for track = WIN!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Ideally, I want to give these coils a hard time to see what they can handle.

Well if you are happy to throw a set this way I can test them at 30psi in a few weeks. :)

Alkatraz Rising Star

Alkatraz

Posted
Posted

My car doesnt see a hell of a lot of action during the week but is driven hard almost every weekend to make up for it. Would be happy to give them a try if you like. How long would the test run for?

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Here's another V36 owner who is happy to give them a go. I have a tendency to thrash the car often (which is why I insist on servicing the car myself every 5000km) so I hope I can be considered one of the extreme testers, for a naturally aspirated vehicle.

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. I'll send some PMs out shortly.

Im kind of new to the V series skylines. Can any one confirm for me what other cars/engines are interchangeable with the V35 coil packs and also the V36 coil packs?

Thanks in advance.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

V36 (2008-) and Z34 (370Z) use the same VQ37VHR engine although I believe the V36 sedans didn't get this engine until the 2009 model. Otherwise, up until then the V36 sedans got the V35 engine.

Edited by The Max

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...