Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

wondering if anyone has anything similar occur....

Basically on startup, the power steering is very noisy but then goes away once the car has warmed up.

The power steering pump has had a full reco around 18 months ago. Before then, the noise was constant.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Is the fluid aerated/bubbly in the reservoir?

100% its p/s? Dropped the belt and rechecked ?

Would suck if say it was an idler or tensioner pulley and just sounded like it was coming from p/s pump area then let go

Not sure, it's just really strange that on a cold morning startup the car is fine, no noises. If right then I do a dry steer, the loud noise starts. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it's all perfect and quiet!!! What the!!

  • 10 months later...

Not sure, it's just really strange that on a cold morning startup the car is fine, no noises. If right then I do a dry steer, the loud noise starts. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it's all perfect and quiet!!! What the!!

Pulling this up from a year ago but did you ever fix this problem....mine started doing this exact same thing this morning :(

this was the symptom of mine as the power steering pump was getting on - noisy when cold and dry steering, then would go away.

it will gradually get worse if it is indeed the PS pump.

bottom line is you can leave them for a while without any trouble.

Mine started having a noticeable effect on the slow speed steering when the car was still warming up until I did anything (replaced the PS pump).

good luck!

You can try replacing the fluid to help with cold temp steering. As fluid gets old and sludgey and is thicker than normal when cold. This means it isn't lubing the system as well. Draining the fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid can help.

I have to get around to doing it to my Commodore at some point (when I could be bothered, along with finding the cause of the slight misfire it has). had a leaky pump for ages and had put some stuff in it that was supposed to slow/stop leaks. Basically it was a thick fluid. I finally got a new pump but didn't completely flush the system (just topped it up really), so on cold mornings the steering has a bit of a notch just off straight. Once it warms up it's fine. I did some googling and that's when I found out about flushing the system (which made sense, since the fluid is thinner when warm, and on really cold mornings it was much worse, to a point where on a sub zero morning I had no power steering the first time I tried to turn the wheel).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...