Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an auto 93 r33 GTS-t and it is only making 90kw on the dyno ...

it has no power down low, or even thru the middle rev range, BUT i can feel it hit boost around about 5,000rpm ..

the only mods that are on it are:

* HKS Superdragger exhaust

* Turbosmart BOV

* Turbosmart boost controller

even before any of the above mods were made it still ran like shit, and my mate had it on his dyno today and it has only made a top of 90kw, he had thought that the cat may have collapsed but that isnt the case .. he has told me that r33's havent got the best standard ECU, BUT some are quite good and others are shitty its just the luck of the draw ..

what could be the problem?? he is flat out with work and unfortunately didnt have the time today to go over it all ..

any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412261-need-help-r33-gts-t-with-90kw/
Share on other sites

Factory boost level?

If so you'd only expect around 140rwkw or so, and the auto will suck about 10k off that. So a problem yes - most likely as stated around the timing of the CAS, or the actual cam belt being off a tooth as well causing issues (also common).

Thanks for the feedback guys, my mate had done a smoke test and it had come up clear so we will check the timing asap, but its no longer running stock boost level, he set it at around 9psi I think

That's what I would like to try, so if anyone in Newcastle or the Central Coast has a known working ECU and would let me try it out it would be much appreciated and I can get a carton of beer or whatever for their time and help!!!

If it suits you more pal I'd be more than happy to wait till the weekend until its out permanently, how's that sound for you? Where are you from, I could come pick it up and try it out at your place

I have an auto 93 r33 GTS-t and it is only making 90kw on the dyno ...

it has no power down low, or even thru the middle rev range, BUT i can feel it hit boost around about 5,000rpm ..

the only mods that are on it are:

* HKS Superdragger exhaust

* Turbosmart BOV

* Turbosmart boost controller

even before any of the above mods were made it still ran like shit, and my mate had it on his dyno today and it has only made a top of 90kw, he had thought that the cat may have collapsed but that isnt the case .. he has told me that r33's havent got the best standard ECU, BUT some are quite good and others are shitty its just the luck of the draw ..

what could be the problem?? he is flat out with work and unfortunately didnt have the time today to go over it all ..

any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

THIS is the EXACT same problem I am having after my engine swap. shitty power down low, makes boost fine but no pull untill 5000rpm

Checked everything I could by myself, Cam timing exhaust restriction boost/vacuum leaks etc. Also If you put a timing light on it can you actually get a reading, mine just jumps around.

I noticed the other day that my injectors are not the standard purple colour they are red, so im guessing thats my issue and a long shot but could be yours???

I've only ever seen this problem in marine and I'm not sure what spark plugs are required in rb's but I've seen a mercury 75hp have crazy issues and jump around on the timing light because the resistor in one of the spark plugs failed.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok well i tried a new ECU this afternoon and no difference, so i will be moving onto trying a new AFM ..

if anyone around the newcastle/central coast region has a spare afm for a series 1 33 that i could borrow it would be much appreciated !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...