Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got some pics of the white one from WTAC a few years back, pretty sure it had bonnet spacers and looked odd.... But put out good power.... With the amount you can get out of a stock NEO with the right bolt ons kind of makes most builds seem a waste.... When mine pops I'll put another NEO in for less than $2k and go again :)

With the amount you can get out of a stock NEO with the right bolt ons kind of makes most builds seem a waste.... When mine pops I'll put another NEO in for less than $2k and go again :)

+1

OP - what are you trying to achieve? NEO motor is a good piece of kit. RB26 might not be the best way to spend your time and money.

What i want to look at building a motor for is to eventually turn the car more into a track car than a daily drive and just the hobby of building a motor :happy:

but what sort of power can you get out of a 25 opened/ unopened safely vs the 26

i want to have a motor that i can give it a thrashing without having to worry all the time about breaking things.

what are your ideas on the 2 motors and what they are capable of, i mean you are going to know alot more than me im only new to the skyline scene and just trying to bead in the right direction haha.

thanks guys any info is appreciated and taken on board

James

Hey all,

I live around Newcastle and im new to the skyline scene and looking to establish a relationship with a good tuner to get any work done, get the car tuned etc and all round know alot about skylines,

any ideas and experiences would be great.

Cheers,

James

Hi James, I can see you're new. Going over your topics, they have been done to death... Do us all a favour and SEARCH!

searchitnoob.gif

My stock NEO is making perfect power for track, drift, drag or whatever you want to throw at it.... It's near undrivable on full boost, at the end of the day the NEO can out power the driver if done right.....

but what sort of power can you get out of a 25 opened/ unopened safely vs the 26

NEO has the same strong rods as the RB26. Crank is never a problem, so the only diff in bottom end strength is pistons, but i dont know how they compare. NEO also has solid cams, so while 26s are a decent step up from early 25s, you cant say the same with NEO vs 26.

alot of effort for an extra 44cc or whatever it is and a slighty better flowing head

Eh, I don't really know if the RB26 goes better than the NEO head.

Let's face it, unless you really want Twin turbos and ITBs, there is no reason to ditch the NEO in favour of the 26.

Eh, I don't really know if the RB26 goes better than the NEO head.

Let's face it, unless you really want Twin turbos and ITBs, there is no reason to ditch the NEO in favour of the 26.

I have heard the Neo has the highest flowing head out of all the RB engines.

ITB's on the 26 are cool though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...