Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm really after opinions at this stage, i really don't know if i want to sell my beloved V35 coupe.

I'm having a few issues with the car but i know most of them are reasonably easy to fix.

"Auto" function on drivers side window does not work

worn right side compression rod bush (have the new bush sitting in my room waiting to go in this weekend)

fuel gauge changes at different rates and is not correct

the door lock keeps playing up

when my mirrors auto fold in & out the right side mirror is always slower than the left side.

i have a worn 5th synchro.. i know it's an issue but i can get by for months on end with it only grinding a little bit if i shift quick into 5th.

So that's what's wrong with the car that frustrates me, i'm just half tempted to sell it as is for 18k and go buy what i want which is a 06 or 07 Ivory Pearl manual with 50-70k kms and get black TE37S.. mmmm.

Anyway, post what you think if you can be bothered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/
Share on other sites

The only thing worth really worrying about is the synchro

The auto function on the windows: is it anything like the 33's where it gets dry solder in the control box for it? cause thats an easy fix

Door locks: how do they keep playing up?

Fuel gauge: not a real big deal, sender or cluster

Mirrors auto fold in: Really? just cause there slow? lol

The problems are pretty minor, and you'll probably end up losing money for a car that might develop the exact same problems and you'll be right back where you started, or worse

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6606911
Share on other sites

The gearbox would shift better with trans fluid. (dextron III) Whether it's too late for that, who knows.

The fuel sender probably needs a clean, 10 minute fix.

Perhaps you should sell the car to someone willing to maintain it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607021
Share on other sites

The only thing worth really worrying about is the synchro

The auto function on the windows: is it anything like the 33's where it gets dry solder in the control box for it? cause thats an easy fix

Door locks: how do they keep playing up?

Fuel gauge: not a real big deal, sender or cluster

Mirrors auto fold in: Really? just cause there slow? lol

The problems are pretty minor, and you'll probably end up losing money for a car that might develop the exact same problems and you'll be right back where you started, or worse

Yeah that's what i mean about little issues. I think if the auto feature stops working you need a new window motor. If the auto feature worked but the window was slow, i could just clean the motor and it'd be sweet.

door locks, every so often i will go to unlock the car with the central locking button on my key and it wont unlock. I will wait 10-15 seconds and hit unlock again then it will work. Sometimes if i wait, it wont unlock and u have to use the key. It's annoying but it doesnt happen all the time.

i know how to fix the fuel gauge, i need to pull the sensor thingy out and clean it.

Mirrors aren't a big deal by any means, as i said its just a little annoying thing. I'm like that.

The gearbox would shift better with trans fluid. (dextron III) Whether it's too late for that, who knows.

The fuel sender probably needs a clean, 10 minute fix.

Perhaps you should sell the car to someone willing to maintain it?

i plan to purchase a thicker trans fluid,

I work 8-6 monday to saturday, i don't want to be spending my 1 day off a week having to fu*k around doing things on the day when i could be out at the beach or something with the mrs, i am willing to maintain my car but time is the problem for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607150
Share on other sites

Then take it to the mechanic? I quite enjoy spending my only day off working on the car...

If you put thicker trans fluid you will make the syncro's worse, I said to use Dextron III Auto fluid which is much thinner. Don't slam the gears if you want it to last.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607163
Share on other sites

You're owing to sell it and wind up with another range of issues. The problem with these cars isn't the little niggly issues, it's the lack of serviceability especially in areas like BFN. What you're pissed off with is haing these problems and not having the time to do it and having minimal assistance from mechanics because its a new import. Well, if that's the case, buy a damn hilux. Old mate down the road who dropped out of primary school can repair a hilux. Ad parts are readily available.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607192
Share on other sites

You're owing to sell it and wind up with another range of issues. The problem with these cars isn't the little niggly issues, it's the lack of serviceability especially in areas like BFN. What you're pissed off with is haing these problems and not having the time to do it and having minimal assistance from mechanics because its a new import. Well, if that's the case, buy a damn hilux. Old mate down the road who dropped out of primary school can repair a hilux. Ad parts are readily available.

Yes that's true, i do agree with you. Haha, nah i will have a Prado or Hilux for a drive car pretty soon but until then my V35 is my daily.

I have had my CD player die, drivers side door lock and passenger side window, all within 2 weeks. Shit happens with cars, you just have to fix it and remember you're driving an awesome car when it's all done

Indeed, i think the thing that scares me is forking out $2500 for a new gearbox then having another issue with something else big you know? That's right, i do love the car to bits!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607526
Share on other sites

If your 5th synchro is badly worn, no oil is going to fix it, thicker or thinner. Thinner oil may result in a noisier transmission, thinker oil may result in harder shifting (with the good gears). To be honest, if you don't want to spend the money on repairing or replacing the gearbox, then just skip 5th gear.. it's a close ratio box, just accelerate to 60km/h in 4th, and drop it straight to 6th. Not ideal, but cheap...

Left mirror will always close quicker than the right, it's on more of an angle to start with.. the right mirror has to move further to close.

Compression rods are an easy fix if you have access to a press.

As for the central locking. it is in a particular location? My wife has found the securty camera system at the Townsville hospital car park interfere with her central locking (wireless cameras, probaby on the same frequency band), if she parks under one of the cameras, she needs to use the key to lock/unlock the car.

Edited by sonicii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607538
Share on other sites

If your 5th synchro is badly worn, no oil is going to fix it, thicker or thinner. Thinner oil may result in a noisier transmission

Have you tried said dextron III in your manual trans? Or E-opinion? Perhaps a google search is in order...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607561
Share on other sites

Never tried dexIII in a manual transmission that specifies a heavier GL4 gear oil. a quick google search turned up several pages that says it is a big NO NO, unless the said gearbox is designed for dexIII, several mentions of insufficient bearing lubrication and bearing cooling and reduced synchro operation (synchros rely on the viscosity of the oil to bring gears into sync without metal to metal contact - also the reason using a GL5 oil in our manual gearboxes results in difficult shifting).

I have used 'lighter than specified' gear oil on other manual transmissions and it made the gearbox noisier.

Edited by sonicii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607590
Share on other sites

Mmm, big NoNo. lol.

Just like the RE5 will only work with MaticJ...

Don't worry, I too was sceptical initially, until my transmission specialist recommended it. Not like it will explode if you try it out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607596
Share on other sites

Nah it's always the driver's side door when i go to unlock the car when it plays up. The passenger door will open but not the driver's.door.

Greg, i don't think the synchro is really bad. It only grinds if i shift at the same speed you would in a race.. when i shift normally or slightly slower than normal it goes in fine.

I need a specific and accurate brand of oil to use, i might just go check out the DIY servicing section as everyone seems to have different opinions as to what oil does what.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6607770
Share on other sites

Oh, well we had better drop everything and put Redline in... Thicker the better. Have fun with that.

Pretty sure you wasted a post Scott!

Ps. $50 is a cheap test IMO. If it fixes the issue gold. If not you were stuffed anyway.

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412913-should-i-sell/#findComment-6608075
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...