Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after hanging shit on drunkan for years i decided to buy one of these for a laugh.

anyway it has a lunched motor, and i have an rs260 frontcut in my shed that just wants to go into it to make it a little bit more fun.

so ill slap the conversion it in over the next few weeks and have some fun.

any tips would be appreciated on stuff to look out for during the conversion.

bought off a local sydney sau guy.

stag2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413114-bought-an-rs4/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha, welcome to the club fatz

also, you have a lot of project cars

my tips would be:

use the 34 clutch master (without the gtr/260rs booster) and you don't have to recess the firewall

get a manual cradle so the front and rear tracks are the same, i think gtr may also be the same or s14

also, maybe take the auto radiator out and put a 33 one in to piss off the heat exchanger

oh, and check for rust under the wing mirrors

and if its got only 1 reverse light check for epic rust

Edited by pipster11
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413114-bought-an-rs4/#findComment-6610916
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...