Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey all

I'm wanting to get a 600ish hp engine in my r33 gtst.. Price target 10-20k (20 is a push). is it possible? got a running rb25 decent intercooler, 3inch exhaust, good fuel pump and fuel pressure reg.

What would you do? ps i live in brisbane

I would sell it and buy one with the work done, or a lot of it done.

You won't do it for anything less than 30k reliably.

20k if you don't build the engine or gearbox

15k if you buy everything from ebay but then it could go either way - maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, maybe it costs you another 10k to fix all the bad stuff

Built 25/30, TO4Z, E85, + all supporting mods ( brakes, diff, fuel setup, manifolds, fabrication, clutch, exhaust, stuff)

20k should do it.

Or buy one built for less so you can keep your car for when the other one breaks.

yeah, i was talking bout building a engine not just bolt ons. I have been looking around the net and did find a rb30/25 on spool for 10k http://www.spoolimports.com/miscellaneous-short-engines/rb30det-complete-engine. 10-20k has gotta get me further then a big turbo, big injectors, ecu and a blown engine. Surely things haven't gone up that much

U would be surprised how quick all the little things add up when building a motor,

There is also a difference in having a built motor and building the correct motor.

Labour is expensive, unless u do it all yourself.

I honestly don't think u will achieve it on your budget, I know from my own experience how much building a motor and supporting systems cost n it always ended up more then what I budgeted for

shattered dreams

Not shattered, enlightened.

Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers.

My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning.

BUT

At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen.

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

yeah, i was talking bout building a engine not just bolt ons. I have been looking around the net and did find a rb30/25 on spool for 10k http://www.spoolimpo...complete-engine. 10-20k has gotta get me further then a big turbo, big injectors, ecu and a blown engine. Surely things haven't gone up that much

600hp...

$10K engine

$2.5k turbo

$1k intercooler

$2.5k E85 fuel system

$1k exhaust

$1.5k e85 tune

$1.5k ECU

20k adds up pretty quickly without even touching the gearbox/clutch.

400hp with bolt on's maybe a better option or buy an already built long motor.

20k will get you driving some pretty quick well built 32gtr's too

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Do all the work yourself, you'll do it with 20k easy.

To be honest the thought had crossed my mind.. problem is.. ive worked on most things to do with a car but ive never done bottom end work.. How technical is it.. ps i am quite confident in building shit im just used to working from plans

Try n buy a locally already built motor, there is heaps on the forums

What happens if you buy a "built" motor from Japan n when it turns up u find its still a standard motor??

A low km motor is still a standard motor.

What ever u buy tho, make sure it has receipts n a reputable place who screwed the motor together

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...