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Not shattered, enlightened.

Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers.

My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning.

BUT

At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen.

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

Heh heh traction.. im not worried about that

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I've got an RB25 here that isn't built yet but is ready to measure and assemble. It has Ross Racing pistons, Eagle forged conrods, ARP main studs and ACL race series bearings. It doesn't have a crank collar fitted (I was going to go external sump) but I can have one fitted free of charge. Wanting $4.5k and will come with warranty. No cylinder head

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

all items could be bought second hand in the classifields, job done

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

I would dare say you'd need rods aswell... last thing you want is rod bolts being your un-doing.

There are alot of good results with GTX3076s... but I would still go a GTX35.... yes added lag but more power especially on 85...

Or just go a Precision... I have heard nothing but good things and I am myself thinking of going a Precision 6262 for my GTR

I would strongly suggest go see EFI and Elite if in the Brisbane Area. They are my Builders and Tuners, top blokes.

Edited by EAT26

The best thing you can do is form a total understanding of what you plan to build. Know and understand every part and don't leave a stone unturned. Put this all on paper.

Next step is to make phone calls and send emails to put dollar value to everything you know.

I definitely think 20k can scrape through.. but that is assuming you don't change anything drivetrain related. Motor setup and clutch only, tuned.

I recently built my own motor. Cost me 3500 in rounded up figures to build an SR that will hold the power your talking about. I kept the head very simple but I think I could get it there within another 1500 (5k total). All work done by me, except machine work.

it will be a long difficult process to keep it under 20k but you can do it.

Been thrashed i assume.. wow money gets you f**k all now days

Well of course it's been thrashed, why else would you build an rb26, to baby it? Put put around the city? It doesn't matter anyway as long as it has been built right and maintained properly. Why else are you planning on spending 20k on a motor to chase big power? I assume when you looked at buying your skyline you were looking for a car that had this in the ad right? "never boosted, never thrashed, never see a track" If you were to buy a motor you would be pretty stupid to not get a compression and leak down test done to it anyway to make sure it's in good shape.

easy .. but aim for less ... some sort of rb25 combo whether standard or built a little ie: bottom end appropriate bolt ons that everyone else uses to get that power (6boost, ex gate, gtx 3076 or similar, injectors, pumps) and on e85 get 450 - 500hp tops safely, spend the money left over on suspension, tyres and seat time

still need to be able to put 500 - 600 hp to the ground in a drift car... drifting is just as much about grip as turning tyres

unless your running a great suspension setup and an awesome big tyre you will find anything over 450 - 500hp pretty useless I think

Im running 440ish hp with just about every suspension thing you need etc etc on decent 265 18" tyres on 18 psi and dampers near full soft in rear for drift and still searching for more grip and turning those tyres like crazy as are most others around that mark and are competitive at a good level

unless you are going full Pro spec and can afford great tyres... .. Its not really needed imo...

The Borg Warner s300sx series is an awesome turbo for its price

on a baby 2.6 its brilliant. Even on low boost and 50% ethenol the power and response is excellent

the turbo cost me $950... couldnt be happier atm

the twinscroll manifold and plumbing up the gates was the $$$$ part :P

as already stated, its the little things that add up very quickly, but its the little things that bring the whole set up together to make it work

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

Have talked about this but the logistics is a PITA, does it get tuned boost/road speed for the drag radials or the semi slicks or the road tyres.

To be honest its only the drag radials or semis that get a flogging but the traction difference between the two is fairly large.

The drag radials on a prepped strip are near perfect for the boost, the semis could do with some more work in this area though, but the poor old Hankooks Ventus RS3 street tyres though are in trouble everywhere under the top of third.

For a all rounder the tuning does suffer a bit due to the different amounts of traction for different disiplines, if it was street or track only the issues would be easly fixed, but alas Im trying to do three things with the one car.

Is fun though.

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