Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I would post up my thoughts from my last track day on Wednesday @ the QR sprints

Previously every track day I have been to in my V35 I have always left the car in D mode with the PWR button pressed as the triptronic mode was far too laggy to be of any use

I recently had the transgo shift kit installed and was interested to see what sort of a difference it would make

I found that there were some pros and cons when it comes to trying to get your quickest time with the shift kit fitted compared to stock

The kit was good in the fact that I could drive the car like a manual in triprtonic mode and actually benefit from some sort of engine braking + the shifts happened for the most part in triptronic mode when I wanted them to unlike how the auto box behaves when its stock

I also managed to shave .16 off my best lap time however the improvement is somewhat on the small side that it could be attributed to a number of factors other than the shift kit

The negative, although I considered it more fun than negative was that the harder/faster shifts turned the car into a powerslide machine if I wasn't careful or more so if I wanted it to when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. This was with 245 Toyo R888 semi slicks on the back :woot: not so good for lap times however

I'm half keen to take the car to a Friday night drift session with some stocko 17's on the back given how easy it was to slide with the semi slicks on

Don't forget I am running an LSD unlike 99.999% of the other auto V35s out there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413332-transgo-and-the-track/
Share on other sites

Luckily I had AWD, it loved the track, for about 2 laps before the trans went into overheating limp mode.

I don't think I would take a stock valve bodied car to the track though, the clutches would slip badly imo, causing more heat. Do you have a large trans cooler?

Have never been in limp mode cars been to 9 or so track days with around 20+ laps a day

Do run a trans cooler, dont think you would call it big but you can see the size in the pic + I run the best bang for buck cooling mod by removing the grill at the track so the car gets max airflow even tho it causes more drag

Also note that my tranny is going to be dealing with a lot less power than yours given you make double the power I do!!!

post-9102-0-07887700-1352383286_thumb.jpg

Edited by 180 wanabe

Don't forget I am running an LSD unlike 99.999% of the other auto V35s out there

Hey you keep saying this.......but every coupe that I have done a Transgo kit with in Sydney has had an LSD. Infact I am pretty sure it is standard equipment on manual or auto. The only difference being that the manual runs a 3.538 diff ratio and the auto runs a 3.327(or something).

Who said that the auto's don't come with LSD?

With the RE5 the line pressure is variable, meaning at light throttle is shifts silky smooth but when you plant it the shifts are firm. Definitely great for daily duties but it needs to be installed as per instructions, something professional transmission repairers seem to have a problem with.

The trans can be a little clunky compared to normal, not all the time just the occasional harder shift at light throttle or sometimes when dropping it back a gear. Nothing to worry about though. The clutches will last much longer without the drawn out slop into gear the factory valve body has.

Which suburb are you in Norby?

id be interested to know what the transgo is like for daily suties? I.e ido a lot of stop start driving, does it thunk between 1st and 2nd with little throttle?

mine isnt transgo brand (its custom made), and it does hit second quite hard regardless of throttle position. but this is in a 4 speed...

Custom made means it has some locally wound springs shoved in the place of the stock ones. This does not = shift kit. Yes it bumps up the line pressure but... Transgo have obviously spent a lot of research dollars sorting these kits out, replacing various pistons, adding valves and upgrading springs, all of which gives it the perfect crisp shift imo. I'm certainly glad my transmission specialist didn't cheap out and manufacture his own parts.

id be interested to know what the transgo is like for daily suties? I.e ido a lot of stop start driving, does it thunk between 1st and 2nd with little throttle?

im in Croydon North, im actually considering doing this mod. Just realised today the paint on my bonnet has been repainted and is all now peeling... if it isnt one thing its another with this f***ing car... i still love it though

Custom made means it has some locally wound springs shoved in the place of the stock ones. This does not = shift kit. Yes it bumps up the line pressure but... Transgo have obviously spent a lot of research dollars sorting these kits out, replacing various pistons, adding valves and upgrading springs, all of which gives it the perfect crisp shift imo. I'm certainly glad my transmission specialist didn't cheap out and manufacture his own parts.

Pretty sure MV Automatics are a bit more detailed than that

Hey you keep saying this.......but every coupe that I have done a Transgo kit with in Sydney has had an LSD. Infact I am pretty sure it is standard equipment on manual or auto. The only difference being that the manual runs a 3.538 diff ratio and the auto runs a 3.327(or something).

Who said that the auto's don't come with LSD?

I was sure I had found something about the diff specs of different V35 cars a couple years back. I know that the old diff in my car was crap and constantly peg legged at the drags/lit up the inside wheel when going around a corner at the track

If you can find an auto v35 that can throw down 2 black lines at the same time with the stock diff ill take my hat off to it who knows maybe a factory option, either way viscous sucks balls

copy pasted this from another forum:

2003 sedans didn't have an option for VLSD

2004-2006 sedans had a sport package option which came with VLSD

2007 sport sedans have VLSD, base & journey have ABLS

2003-2004 coupes had VSLD if it was a Performance Wheel and Tire package option, which meant 18" wheels auto or manual.

2005-2007 coupes only those with the Sport Suspension Package had VSLD

*The 18" wheel option for 05/06 is only that, wheels and tires

VLSD became part of the Sport Tuned Suspension package for 05/06*

Pretty sure MV Automatics are a bit more detailed than that

You hope.

I can guarantee they haven't put the same amount of R+D into their valve body upgrades that Transgo have. All I can go by is the local 'specialist' that makes his own springs, they aren't anywhere near as refined and simply bumping the line pressure gives clunky changes. If you are happy thats great but the RE5 is a completely different gearbox...

either way viscous sucks balls

And a two way doesn't? Give me a new tight oem Viscous lsd any day over a clunky mechanical. (for street)

There is no adjustment as far as I know, they will probably need to take the shims out from behind the line pressure spring in the valve body.

Perhaps a slightly thicker transmission fluid may help slow the clutch actuation down?

The diff option list above is for USDM

Best I can do.

Unless you've got a manual or an auto with 'sport package' then only way you'll know is by jacking it up and throwing it in nuetral.

Open diff's can twin up in a straight line though - my R31 had an open diff, and from a standstill it would light up both - have videos from the drags to show it.

Corners were a different matter though.......single peggers all the way!

And a two way doesn't? Give me a new tight oem Viscous lsd any day over a clunky mechanical. (for street)

I've had cars with open, viscous, 2 way and helical lsds and I'd say the best all rounder is the helical

Nothing puts hairs on your chest like going around a large roundabout in the wet with a nice tight 2 way :P

I owned a celica twin cam powered KE30 rolla with a migged diff for a few years, you get over it pretty quick, especially in winter. My favorite diff in the wet is the single spinner, no chance of stepping out with spider gears front and rear. AWD FTW. :)

Best I can do.

Unless you've got a manual or an auto with 'sport package' then only way you'll know is by jacking it up and throwing it in nuetral.

Open diff's can twin up in a straight line though - my R31 had an open diff, and from a standstill it would light up both - have videos from the drags to show it.

Corners were a different matter though.......single peggers all the way!

hey mate just a quick noob question,

when I jacked my car up on a hoist, and in N, the rear right wheel spins by itself, if I put my hand to it and hold it still, the rear left wheel starts spinning,

what sort of diff do I have?

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...