Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my cooling mod on the car on Sunday. Other that a small problem with my Knock sensor being F#$ked and having to pull the top end off again it all went well.

Pretty easy to do IMO.

My setup is:

Mishimoto Rad

Mishimoto 12" Thermos and shroud

Nismo low temp thermostat

No engine Fan

Scott's Coolant bypass

Electronic temp controller

For the first time in a long time I was actually able to keep the A/C on without my temps getting up over 92 Degrees at idle even today when it was hot at times. With the A/C off though the car is sitting on about 79/80 on idle. If I get up it the temps do go up to about 85/86 and stays there, the recovery is extremely quick. All over i'm feeling a lot safer with this on....I should have done it ages ago.

Bleeding is very easy but I will suggest to go and get a fitting to go into the top of the bleeder so you can fit a tube onto it.......IMO Scott should supply this! :P

Well done Scott.

What is your oil temp when you give it some stick?

Around town with the Greddy setup I have its about 90 degrees most of the time. After a rather spirited drive(hard drive for most) probably about 92-95 depending on the weather. On the track I would expect to see 100-110 after about 5 laps also depending on the weather.

Why the question on Oil?

Mine is f*%kn leaking apparently. Hope to get the car back from AM Performance tomorrow, then I'll have to pull it all apart again... f*&ker!

Where's it leaking? Can't you do it at home? :P

It only took me about 10-15 minutes to get back down to the gully! I move the whole injector rail and intake as one piece though

Where's it leaking? Can't you do it at home? :P

It only took me about 10-15 minutes to get back down to the gully! I move the whole injector rail and intake as one piece though

It's leaking in the valley by the sound of it. I bet its that farking Proflow fitting in the valley. Yeah I'll do it at home this time.

Didn't think of moving the injector rail and intake as one piece. Might give that a crack.

OK......so I've done my first real spirited drive(Alec I had a clear run down the test track! :P).

Water Temps sat at a perfect 79-80 degree's the whole way(oil temp 98)....I was also on high boost which is about 24-26PSI. I got stuck at one set of lights after a heavy hit uphill and the recovery was awesome.....the highest I saw was 82 degrees while on idle but the thermo's dropped that back down to 78 pretty quick.

The other thing I have noticed is now my A/C doesn't creep about 84 degree's when on stuck in traffic(I run thermos).

Finally the cars temps are under control! :)

As I said before Scott this is an awesome mod and one well worth doing imo!.....It almost needs Nismo branding! :P

For anyone living in the hotter states or wanting to go on the track this is definitely something you should be looking at for the longevity of the motor.

Ryan - The only correction I would make to your install is to not remove the injectors. Simply unbolt the lower intake and move it out of the way as one complete unit. As mentioned further above it takes me about 10 minutes to get down into the gully of the motor.

Leak fixed, temps perfect now.

Leak was a loose proflow fitting on top of the valley. Re-tightened it, sucked all the coolant out of the valley, and pressure tested the radiator. Away we go!

Temps are now a stable 90 degrees even with the air con on flat out. MUCH BETTER!

Oh, and Scotty: hose is about 36cm long. How long have you been supplying them?

How long have you been supplying them?

Only about 3 weeks now... lol.

Good to hear you found & fixed the leak. Getting quick @ removing the plenum are we?

Only about 3 weeks now... lol.

Good to hear you found & fixed the leak. Getting quick @ removing the plenum are we?

Lol I meant how long a hose has Scott been supplying. But thanks :P

Not quite Craig's 15 minute figure, but only a little longer. Better without removing the fuel rail, for sure.

Oh, and Scotty: hose is about 36cm long. How long have you been supplying them?

I think the last one I did was only 260mm long. I have the block fitting pointing towards the bleeder, it makes it a little shorter and gives better clearance from the exhaust.

Definitely do the proflow fittings up tight in the vice first, with a little lubricant. Don't try and tighten them in the car, it will come loose and leak.

I think the last one I did was only 260mm long. I have the block fitting pointing towards the bleeder, it makes it a little shorter and gives better clearance from the exhaust.

Definitely do the proflow fittings up tight in the vice first, with a little lubricant. Don't try and tighten them in the car, it will come loose and leak.

My block fitting points towards the bleeder, but 26 might be too short? Be interested to see pics of how that sits.

Fittings are fine now, but a PITA to tighten properly in the car.

  • 6 months later...

Well after running the Mishimoto 12" Thermos and shroud for the last 6 month's I have made the decision to change back to the fan.

My car with the thermo's has been running in between 86-93 on normal running(including freeway). I recently went down to Kiama and went through the mountains only to find that when I got to the top even though I was not up it the whole time I spiked up to 104.

So with the fan(no shroud yet as I will need to make one to suit my Rad) my car's temp is now 74-79 in traffic and around town. I also had the chance to give it a good hit up some hill this morning only to find that the max temp I could get to was 81(I normally get to 93 on the same hill). On top of that the whole engine bay seems to be cooler.

I have to say don't waste your money on taking the Fan off and only running thermo's.

This supports my long held belief that thermo fans, regardless of the wild manufacturer claims; are nothing but hot air.

Anecdotally, a clutch fan can flow 3000cfm of air at peak, whereas the best I've heard of out of a 14" thermo is around 800-900cfm (nothing like the 3000cfm some manufacturers claim).
Even with 2x14" thermo's you are more than 33% down on airflow.

The advantage with the clutch fan is that it is constantly expelling hot air from the engine bay; rather than thermo's which need to wait until the engine starts to heat soak; then they have to try to drag the temp back down.

If the fan clutch is in good working order; they present little load on the engine until they are needed, and very little impediment to response.

Yes, a pair of thermo's might (might) provide more airflow than a clutch fan at idle; they will NEVER provide the same flow as a clutch fan at 2500rpm (most start to freewheel above that; as they are at their optimum flow rate).
Up a hill (low speed), in traffic, under repeated hill start loads; a pair of thermos just cannot keep up with the heat that our cars throw into the cooling system.

The one thing I did like about thermo's when I was running mine; was how quiet the car was on the freeway.
But that's not enough benefit to me.

I'm actually running a GKtech fan with an SR20 clutch; which is even more efficient than our stock fan.

Nah, forget about it.

Not worth changing our design. Bigger radiator, low temp thermostat, and coolant mod is enough for the car never to get hot. And that's even on the track I believe.

Oil temp on the other hand, needs a bit of work to keep down.

Nah, forget about it.

Not worth changing our design. Bigger radiator, low temp thermostat, and coolant mod is enough for the car never to get hot. And that's even on the track I believe.

Oil temp on the other hand, needs a bit of work to keep down.

Alex; question.

Do you know if the PNM fans run (even at low speed) prior to reaching temp?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...