Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Might just check the wiring and voltages and bridge it out if I have to. But I think if it thought it was neutral all the time my vct wouldn't work and it definently does. Worth a shot anyway

I've ordered another power fc so that I can rule out the unit once and for all. I'm pretty convinced its a unit issue because of my old power fc running fine.

Have just checked all the wiring from the CAS to the ECU. Everything is perfect. At this stage I am pretty convinced its an ECU fault. If the new ECU works fine I'll have to find somewhere to send the faulty one for repair.

  • 3 weeks later...

So new ECU has the same problem. I'm really stumped by this. I can't believe noone else has had this issue. If anyone happens to have a brand new Power FC (V7) and wants to help me out, please PM me, would like to compare some data if possible

Although I have tried the base map with only my injector settings changed. Perhaps if someone has a tune that seems to work fine then I can load it into my Power FC and see how it goes. Preferably something with 555cc injectors and a Z32 AFM.

I'm really stumped I've tried just about everything :(

The issue was present in another S1 R33 that I tried it in but because it had far less mods you didnt notice it as much, could just visually see it on the hand controller that the timing was 10 degrees below were it should be and was a bit erratic.

  • 6 years later...
On ‎2‎/‎13‎/‎2013 at 5:32 PM, 89CAL said:

So new ECU has the same problem. I'm really stumped by this. I can't believe noone else has had this issue. If anyone happens to have a brand new Power FC (V7) and wants to help me out, please PM me, would like to compare some data if possible

Although I have tried the base map with only my injector settings changed. Perhaps if someone has a tune that seems to work fine then I can load it into my Power FC and see how it goes. Preferably something with 555cc injectors and a Z32 AFM.

I'm really stumped I've tried just about everything :(

The issue was present in another S1 R33 that I tried it in but because it had far less mods you didnt notice it as much, could just visually see it on the hand controller that the timing was 10 degrees below were it should be and was a bit erratic.

hey what did you end up finding on this CAL? I have a V7 and it does the same thing, goes full rich for a sec or 2 on gearchange/neutral before coming back up in the afrs. I just thought it was a maf reversion thing and hadn't thought too much of it until reading your thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...