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Try initialising and loading only afm curve ignition and injection maps. Input injector size etc manually. Ignition vs tps is definitely updated

Have tried this :(Have sent apexi a log now so see what they come back with

  • 2 weeks later...

Minor update, still waiting to hear back from Apexi

Put another CAS on and it seemed to help slightly, but the problem is still there. I think I'm going to check the wiring for resistance when I can grab a multimeter. Dont really know what else to try at this point

Microtech :D

Eh, after thinking I'd sorted the issue and re-wiring the ignition and re-running an earth for the CAS/wtr temp sesors etc then having it still play up I'm pretty over it now lol. Need to try and find an apexi dealer thats willing to do a swap to test if it is indeed just faulty hardware/programming

The old one is old but, that was the point of the new one lol. Apart from the problem I'm having with the new one, it runs alot nicer with it and has less knock. The old one I've noticed now is alot more slower to respond to changes (e.g. it still says I'm doing 3km/h till I've been stationary for about 3 seconds lol)

I need to find another 33 to see if it does it on that. If so then I know its a unit problem..... or 33's have a really sensitive problem with new power FC's

  • 2 weeks later...

O.K I need some advice with this from the people who know the Power FC inside out

I have tested it on another R33, which was basically stock standard. Did data init, started it, turned off (Skipping the idle learn, as it was a once only drive) and went for a drive. Performed the same way, dropped IGN around 10 degrees after closed throttle and jumped back to normal 1-2 seconds afterwards

I've been in contact with the company it was purchased from new and got told that basically it isn't covered under warranty becasue I am not the original buyer, fair enough. They said I can send it back to Apexi Japan and they will look at it but may not admit there is a fault with it etc and I will have to pay for postage and I'm guessing repairs also

So its a big risk to take for what could be no gain, I could end up spending a couple of hundred dollars

So seen as it seems to be a fault with the unit itself, Is it likely that it is something simple like a dry/bad solder join that has a poor circuit or something repairable locally by someone who deals with Power FC repairs? Because if it is likely to be something like that I would rather send it somewhere in Australia for someone to look at, Because I think theres a better chance that something will be reported to me and fixed, and it will happen alot quicker

So what do people think? I'm not sure who does repairs on Power FC's but I know there is someone who does (Perhaps it was one of the bigger tuning companies)

Any help would be appreciated, because at the moment It's looking a bit like I've wasted my money

Just found this on the Greenline website in the notes for Power FC:

"When used on 93/8~95/1 models, A/F voltage1~4 needs to be increased 6% (In supplied map)"

Would this make any difference? I'm using a Z32 AFM BTW

Also If i were to adjust these, is it done in the Air flow section of FC-Edit (Where the different type of AFM's are) or the Air flow Curve section? I dont know if this would make any difference to the timing problem but better off asking in case its something this simple

Edited by 89CAL
  • 1 month later...

Thread Revival, David at DMS (FC-Hako) has had a play with it and couldnt find any problems. But I had a bit of an idea today, one for the likes of STATUS and other smart people on here that have dealt with the V7 Power FC.

My Neuatral switch has never worked on the sensor SW screen. It seems to be seperate to the Ntr switch for the start circuit (they use the same switch on the gearbox but looks like they split in the engine bay) so just wondering if the ECU thinks its always in Neutral, could this be causing my issues?

The NTR circle on my Sensor SW check is empty, I assumed this meant that the car was not in neutral but not so sure now

from memory VCT never operates if NTR doesnt work

easy way to test it

clutch in

start car

keep clutch in

move into gear

keep clutch in

rev engine to around 1500rpm

keep clutch in

under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK you should see VCT turn on at some point past 1300rpm i think

if you never see VCT turn on, its not running VCT, or VCT is never engaging

worth checking

VCT definently works, even in neutral. So neutral swith off on Power FC would be 'car not in neutral' so there goes that idea I guess :(

I know the neutral switches usually stuff up (or the wiring not sure) so was a bit of an idea but looks like another dead end

I'm pretty much out of ideas now. I can go ahead and buy another Power FC and if it works fine I know its the unit I have at the moment, but then I'm stuck with a dead unit. On the other hand if I buy another one and it does the same I know I have 2 working units and can sell one off, no real loss but I'm stuck with a Power FC that has a horrible flat spot that I cant find the root cause of.

Would be really nice if someone had a V7 Power FC I could borrow but its alot to ask someone lol

Unless anyone has any ideas? Not sure what I'm going to do now

Well.... that might not necessarily work. I have a Power FC already (Old Version 2.20E) which works fine. This is half the reason why I think the new one is faulty, but at the same time who knows what they have done with the program, might be more sensitve to something in the new one when compared to the old one.

I've got one more thing to try tomorrow (Which I dont think will work) and then I think I will just bite the bullet and get a new one. Disappointing but I need to have some answers.

It's crossed my mind many times, But I'm set up to tune the Power FC and I like having the hand controller.

Was considering a link, but I've been pretty happy with the old Power FC, and the new one is great apart from this timing issue

for 10 bucks chuck in a a new neutral switch. I have had some issues with idle stutters on decel with both nistune and pfc that look for neutral on decel to initiate certain idle control strategies.

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