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Does anyone know where I could buy some OEM cruise control switches? I'd like to install them primarily just to change maps with the UpRev reflash.

If they are the same as I supplied with my cruise controls, they cost me $77e from Nissan. Trade price is supposedly $82 according to my local parts guy, & I've heard reports of people being quoted closer to $100.

Btw, they come as a pair with the audio switches.

Theoretically, the principles are the same so if it works for a V35, then it's likely to work for a V36 as well.

Again, purely speculation based on wiring diagrams only, since I haven't got a circuit schematic or at least a spare ECU (let alone time) to take apart and examine.

^^^ it might come from the board behind the stereo, not necessarily the ECU, as a lot of the CAN bus stuff terminates there and runs off. I would extremely surprised if the wiring is not there. Have you pulled off the cruise control spot cover on your steering wheel to see if there is a plug/loom under there?

I installed one of Commsman's cruise control units with factory controls in my 05 sedan.. the connector behind the dash for the steering wheel buttons has no wires for the cruise switches..

So there is no wires from the back of M203 on a car that doesn't have CC fitted from factory.

fortunatly the spirial cable has all the conductors..

xj265... I also gained around 20rwkw... there is no comparison to stock...

My fuel economy is better, the car is much easier to drive.

Sam, how are the new extractors/HFC's? Did you get your Y-pipe replaced?

Mate, they are amazing. I got Hurricane extractors, custom 2" down pipes (almost look like Longtube headers when coupled together) with OEM cats removed and the 2.5" custom Y pipe with 2 relocated HFCs to my existing custom system. Even though it didnt make massive amounts of peak power once retuned as I expected (third gear pulled only a few extra kw) It changed the whole dynamic of the car mid range, and believe it or not, it pulls like a train down low also.

So much smoother, even going from the Uprev reflash to the front exhaust system with another retune, made it better yet again. Feels like exhaust gases arent being held hostage by that ungodly restricting OEM setup anymore. Besides, whats not to love about a screaming VQ?

It has defined the VQ note up till about 3500/4000 rpms then roars its head off. Unbelievable. Its quite loud WOT.

Edited by Vthirty5

Thanks for all the kind words guys! We are super happy with UPREV and their product and even more happy it is giving you guys the results you want!

Some exciting news for you we are currently working with UPREV to allow Cruise control installation in non cruise control vehicles AND a seperate switch for map switching.

I can tell you that in your maps there is no currenty function for cruise control in your ecu's. It must be flashed in and turned on. We are in the process of gathering all the necessary information to make this happen so we will keep you guys informed when we know what is happening.

ALSO

We now have a bench harness on site which means you can ship us your ecu to have it flashed with a generic base map! This will require purchasing the uprev standard cable @ $330, removal of your ecu and postage backwards and forwards to the shop. This means we can help you guys without a shop close by to do your tuning. Should you wish for us to remote tune your car we can do this as well by the purchase of a Standard cable and a Cipher Cable, Once we have sent the initial flash some datalogging backwards and forwards and we should be able to generate a pretty accurate custom tune!

ALSO

I am currently in the process of reviewing a Nitrous Oxide special specifically aimed at V Series Skylines. If you guys shoot me an email if you are interested I can shoot you back some preliminary pricing this will include an UPREV reflash to suit your vehicle if it does not already have one.

The aim of the nitrous oxide is to give an intermediate step between bolt ons and a forced induction setup!

If you guys have any queries regarding the UPREV software or its features or any enquires at all please do not hesitate to shoot me an email at [email protected].

We have had great success with all the vehicles we have done so far. We are looking forward to seeing more from you guys in the future.

Cheers

Matt

^^^ Hi Matt, I don't want to be a dick about this, and we all appreciate the info, but you are treading an extremely fine line regarding paid advertising. SAU demand that ALL businesses wishing to promote their products in any way become site sponsors. If you wish to make further posts (regardless of how informative they are) you REALLY, REALLY need to consider supporting SAU. Even your signature is in effect a banner ad, and is technically against forum policy for non-paid businesses on here ....

Check out the info thread below:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/294953-are-you-a-business-want-to-advertise-on-sau-click-here/

Some exciting news for you we are currently working with UPREV to allow Cruise control installation in non cruise vehicles.

so does that mean I need to stock up on OEM switches?

so does that mean I need to stock up on OEM switches?

Not a bad idea, but get these ones Chris - part number 25550-AC700

They are the newer model to the ones you are/were supplying & have the option of backlighting on the buttons. They look heaps better IMO.

I didn't think of that Greg, wonder how they'll do that.

Also in regards to ECC, sending away my ECU might be a good idea considering my location.. would really like to get rid of my 180km limit and a bit better performance.

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    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
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