Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, was driving the stag yesterday and the motor just died so i pulled over and attempted to start the car again but no love. I know its not the battery as all lights are on and car just wont crank over. Could the coils have lost their spark or it couldnt happen to all of them all at once? If its the crank angle sensor what symptoms are shown?

Car is a c34 auto with nistune, ss2 turbo and other basic mods. Engine light was showing but always comes on when its hot or at night but speedo also dies after a while its left in drive. When that happens i chuck it in tip tronic and the light disappears and speedo comes back on.

What other gremlins may have caused this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414856-stagea-wont-turn-over/
Share on other sites

What do you mean by "won't crank over"? Nothing happens when you turn the key? Can you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key? Check the battery terminals for tightness and cleanlines. Check the earth strap. Check the lead down to the starter motor. Use a test light to check the main fuses in the engine bay. Ignition switches sometimes pack up. Won't be the coils or CAS if the engine won't even turn over.

Yeah ur battery may have a dead or dry cell, this will cause it to have enough power to run ur lights stereo wipers ect but not enough to start it! I had a simmilar problem recently with my wifes 2010 fiesta, took the battery to battery world had it tested, bought a new one put it in and problem solved

+1 for battery connections.

I had a similar issue. Drive to the shops, all good. Came out and went to start the car, nothing. Had all dash lights, stereo, wipers, the works but could only get a click from the engine. After doing some impressive carpark machanics and removing the starter motor to check it wasn't seized or something stupid then fitting it again managed to get it started by short starting it with a jumper lead. Straight to an auto elec who proceeded to do the the most basic thing, check the simple shit first!! Turned out it was I dodgy connection where the terminal clamps onto the cable.

Check the battery connections or try a new battery.

lol, we tried a new battery and same thing still wouldnt start. Now we are looking for a auto electrician to look over the car but as soon as people hear that its a stagea nobody wants a piece of it. Anyone know of a mobile auto electrician based in sydney that knows a thing about stageas?

Ok let's get this clear, does the engine wind over & not start or won't wind over ?????

If it won't wind over can u crank it over by hand? It may have a broken timing belt n bent valves

Edited by GTR260

The biggest issue is - Is this now a new problem ontop of check engine light and speedo dropping off, or somehow a part of it.

When did the CEL and speedo issue start to occur ? After fixing something/replacing something ? Nistune ?

And with no disrespect, lets be very clear on what happens when you start.

Red lights on ACC - YES/NO

Fuel Pump prime on IGN - YES/NO

Starter motor click when starting - YES/NO

Engine rotates when starting - YES/NO

When starting it's misfiring/spluttering and won't run - YES/NO

Diesel was substituted for Petrol - YES/NO

engine winds over but will not start.

Lol diesel. Actually the engine light problem came on 5 hours after i bought the car which is over 2 years ago and comes and goes here and there. When i did get the nistune toshi told me i had a faulty speedo sensor and my 02 sensor was basically dead. Apart from that the car has never given me any issues.

oh and yes red lights on acc fuel pump primes on ign, starter motor clicks when trying to start

ok, so the engine does rotate when starting, but doesn't fire up.

Do a basic spark test

Remove #1 coil pack from engine and connect to a spark plug (leave coil pack wires connected).

Rest the spark plug on an earthed part of car (engine). Attempt to start the car and have a friend look at spark plug for spark. User camera if no friend to be found.

The link below will have pics/info on what to remove to get to spark plugs in case you didn't already know ! Pics are further down in a jumbled order.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42819-rb25det-changing-the-spark-plugs/

^^ starter clicks?? Thats a current delivery issue. At a first guess with a problem like this....

AFM? They have been known to shut you down if theres a bad connection. If you dose it you can stall / break it.

My advice is buy a multimeter and get some data.

Nothing yet, had 5 different auto electricians come to my mechanic and none of them know, dont wanna know since its an import. Been to busy at work to chase this up christmas rush is killing us. Only update now is engine light wont turn on fuel tank doesnt prime so no spark at all. Gonna do a search now for stagea electric info and english version for the fuse box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...