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oh just read air to water cooler...any reason for that setup...got any pics of it...just for interests sake :D

OK so this was a long time coming... but here are some pics and details at last, pics taken when I was installing a cruise control :)

https://plus.google....868313656037249

PS Apologies if you don't have a google account.

Edited by DaveB
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damn..i has google account but its still rejecting it... :unsure:

Sorry Artz, it reverted back to a private albumn for some unknown reason... fixed, and now you don't need to login with a google account :)

The link again - don't need a google account: https://plus.google.com/photos/112306824252649146043/albums/5828868313656037249

Im also having intake temps reaching 50C hence limited my boost to a pissy 18psi on Precision 5558. The outlet pipe from the cooler is cool to typical room metal temp, once you go up the pipe past the battery tray (R34 RB25neo) and behind the radiator and fan it gets hot very quickly-too hot to touch. Remains this hot along the engine over the hot exh cam cover-which only adds to the woes.

I will be shortening and re-routing my intake piping from battery tray to throttle body in a short V-configuration like Stao's new pipe on his R33 I saw in one thread. This should cool things a bit as it will be away from rad/fan and exh cam cover, then I can increase my boost.

Hey Stao I like your new pipe! Do you mind posting a couple closeup pics of the layout lol.

Cheers Ron

Sorry Artz, it reverted back to a private albumn for some unknown reason... fixed, and now you don't need to login with a google account :)

The link again - don't need a google account: https://plus.google....868313656037249

thanks Dave....pretty cool from up top it looks standard...

might pay to wrap it in some heatproof wrap Ron... that precision turbo is internal gate isnt it?

I have yet to see an int gate Precision turbo. I'm running a Compgate40 off the housing, plumb-back to dump.

I have yet to see an int gate Precision turbo. I'm running a Compgate40 off the housing, plumb-back to dump.

ahh see, im still yet to read the precision thread at all...its a decent result you got anyway...is there any pics around of the setup

Pics are on the Precision thread, last 3-4 pages? Well seeing as its supposedly a 3076R equivalent, I think my 286rwkw @18psi ain't too shabby..But was hoping for a bit more, even at this boost.. Now I gotta do up that pipe which heats up..

i just read you have W2A, great in theory but dont generally deliver. In all but one car (dry ice cooler) we have gained more consistent power and intake temps by retrofitting a air to air cooler.

No just a standard ching chong cooler, but might be getting water injection later (without methanol) to run more boost and get a better curve

he was talking to OP Ron... ;)

and +1 still wanting to see dyno sheet...

i just read you have W2A, great in theory but dont generally deliver. In all but one car (dry ice cooler) we have gained more consistent power and intake temps by retrofitting a air to air cooler.

Yes, it was a fun experiment and very satisfying when it worked (it was the first intercooler upgrade I did) and I could hear the "hisssss" when lifting off (stock BOV).

But now I am going to fit a cheap-ish stealth front mount from JustJap. It is the inconsistency of the power runs which is annoying me most of all. You can tell even on the road.

On paper, the W2A setup should be able to extract much more heat than A2A due to the massively increased effective surface area/specific heat of water vs air etc.

But in reality it *seems* to be heat-soaking badly. Problems with pinging in 2nd (and in hot weather, 1st too). Temp's around 58 degrees in the J-pipe don't seem VERY high, but possibly they are as much as 15-20 degrees higher than people running an A2A cooler, going by the information I've gotten in this thread; and that is a big difference (about 30%+).

1 or more of my intake pipes may also be going "sucky closed under boost" (especially I suspect the reinforced flexible silicone stuff). Hopefully by replacing the lot in one go I will get rid of the pinging!

Thanks for the input :)

Edited by DaveB

Can u post up a pic of ur dyno sheet Ron

Its already there in the RB25 dyno results thread if u guys didnt see it. I think my stock clutch is packing up, car doesnt feel powerful anymore, more like 220-230rwkw, a lot of the punch in the back seat feeling is gone even though it revs up all the way, first gear goes to redline really quick, wheelspins n all, 2nd goes quickish, third doesnt and used to wheelspin and go sideways in third now nomore.., not that I want to, but indicating the clutch is shagged after 5 days of hard driving? :( Also the boost doesnt go to 18psi all the time, more like stays at 14-16, mostly 16psi wtf :(... Bloody cars

Edited by rondofj

Its already there in the RB25 dyno results thread if u guys didnt see it. I think my stock clutch is packing up, car doesnt feel powerful anymore, more like 220-230rwkw, a lot of the punch in the back seat feeling is gone even though it revs up all the way, first gear goes to redline really quick, wheelspins n all, 2nd goes quickish, third doesnt and used to wheelspin and go sideways in third now nomore.., not that I want to, but indicating the clutch is shagged after 5 days of hard driving? :( Also the boost doesnt go to 18psi all the time, more like stays at 14-16, mostly 16psi wtf :(... Bloody cars

Id be checking for leaks, my intake manifold gasket blew on the way home from tuners, even the clamps keep coming loose.

I still reckon its the damn clutch, first gear boosts well, goes and revs out real quick but third doesnt- theres not as much shove that used to be there on third, it revs but doesnt accelerate as hard and lost lot of torque

The car is running I think about 8 degrees less timing than standard up top and I am wondering whether the high intake temps may be a contributing factor.

the ecr33 ecu does not retard timing based on air temp as it has no air temp sensor, therefore i will not perform this function (retard timing based on airtemp)

pretty sure er34 is the same no airtemp

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