Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Because its registered as a 4 or 5 seat car.

Normal seats are padded on the outside so passengers dont smash their face in. The back of the racing seat is a hard shell.

If it was registerd as a two seater, and the passenger had the same seat setup, all engineered etc it would be fine.

Targa cars are registered and have cages and everything. But they follow rules so that its not less safe to be on the road, in traffic.

But im not 20 and fit anymore and wont put up with the hassle of using it every day.

"Give me convenience or give me death"

All sexy gear - love the rims

Finally got my wheels so suspension in too.

wheels: VS XXs 18 x 9 +20 all round r-disk front o-disk rear
Bc coilovers 6kg front 4kg rear
Hard race rear camber arms
Hard race front caster arms
Front camber bushes
All guards rolled.
Clear side winkers fitted
Better condition drivers headlight fitted

EBH 340F 335R
Dampening 16F 8R (From softest setting)
Getting it aligned today :)

Wasn't really today, was Sunday, but new motor fitted for 22psi of supercharged goodness :) Also new wheels fitted.

-Ross Pistons
-Argo Rods
-Sealpro rings
-Kelford Cams
-XR6 valve springs
-nitrided crank
-ported heads
-Cometic head gaskets
-Arp head and crank studs/bolts

oz_zps5590007e.jpg

Installed Nismo front strut brace and brake master cylinder stopper. Though yet to drive it since that :(

In the process of redoing my interior. Replacing blown bulbs, new head unit, have made my own triple gauge mount for the dim and am wiring all that up :D

was there anything else?

Took mine in for a wheel alignment. Hopefully it just needs that and a balance and the rest is sweet.

But lets face it... It's a GTR so it's going to need something else!

Tested and removed boost Tee, trying to find why my minimum boost has changed and what the whining noise was.

Faulty Tee or Wastegate Actuator..

Also went to pick up new brake discs, but they weren't in.. Tomorrow will have to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...