Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wouldnt bigger front brake mean they grab more than what the stockies were doing. Therefore i thought it would change the braking balance of the whole car specially during hard braking. Thats why i thought when your upgrading its good to change front and back.

oh right, yes it can. I meant i was giving them a coat of paint :)

  • Like 1

prepped intake pipe for fitting tomoz. All painted stealth :ph34r:

and then tackled something extremely technical...........................put seat covers on........phewwwww !

think timing is now out and needs plugs re-gapped - dang seat covers make car run overly richard and retarded - BOOST FTW !

I buy

You sell cheap yes?

I aint no $2 Hooker but I do put out. ;)

prepped intake pipe for fitting tomoz. All painted stealth :ph34r:

Richard Retarded.

Indeed. :D

I didn't get to the paint shop so bring your paint. :yes:

Did some blowing of the cobwebs out to bed the brakes and adjusted the line pressure of the trans, feels nicer now but flares a bit at mid load.

desperatly need a new exhaust, flattens off way to early.

and bought some sound gear because driving around gets boring without music

I sincerely hope I Never hear that sound. :unsure:

Adjusted my Powersteering Belt a little as I got a couple of Squeals this evening. :(

Perhaps that extra 10mm of belt I now have may be a problem.

The adjuster is very close to the end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...