Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Wagz did some funky low RPM surging thing when coldish this morning. Made me think O2 sensor.

Pulled it out this arvo and gave it a shake. It rattles alot.

Need a new one.

I also need a new one. Jez found out mine was dead so he has told the ecu to go off of his inputs rather than the sensor and I can just adjust the PFC when I've replaced the sensor.

Won't actually find out if fuel economy is better until the end of this tank because I forgot to reset the odo last tank haha... Jez said it should be better off boost though

Edited by dontyellpl0x

Awesome, I shall hit them up at some stage!

Linkage --->> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368412-new-nissan-skyline-r33-o2-oxygen-sensor-59-ph/

Got my enonomy down to 10.5L / 100km Hwy. (before Tune)

I just bought an NTK O2 for the Wagz (off R31Club) for $80 Posted. :D

  • Like 1

Installed brass shifter bush, and detent springs, good thing i had a look under there, one gearbox cross member bolt was coming out, and the others were finger tight.

:blush:

Wont forget again. Will use blue thread lock this time too.

Damn right! Import Rego = Triumph.

Heating is Bonus.

The Wagz is Parked til I get my O2 sensor so the 4door did the work commute today.

Such a different Animal. :woot:

Installed a venom 100c 4" cat. Was hoping that might eliminate some of the loudness haha but it hasn't... So I might need to talk to a workshop about getting another muffler thrown into the mix

3 weeks since i sprayed the final coats.

Im just having a look to see if i can start rubbing it with 12-1500

Hmmm.... maybe. A bit of haze and swirl marks, but it was a quick sand and buff:

post-89755-0-20611300-1402124460_thumb.jpg

Maybe ill just start the wet sanding and buff at the end of the week.

The colour is just the way i want it, a bit more gold than the real GMH colour, i got to compare it today to a new ute.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
  • Like 1

cold start running as bit rough, so cleaned aac valve and adjust tb voltage to 0.45v (was 0.29v previously).

Good stuff! I was having hunting issues as well after my tune. Adjusted it from .34v to .45v at idle last week and that seems to be fixed.

My cold start is pretty bad.. keep it cranking for a split second after its started otherwise it gurgles and struggles for a couple seconds. Might need to look into getting it fixed soon otherwise I'll be struggling when winter actually arrives.

I just give mine a little feather on the gas. Old shtbox that it is i dont expect any better. :no:

Rubbing back the clear, more sanding, just finer, i must have sanded everything at least 30 times by now.

This is the last one, no more sanding after this. Thank rajabajaba. :worship:

  • Like 1

cold start running as bit rough, so cleaned aac valve and adjust tb voltage to 0.45v (was 0.29v previously).

Good stuff! I was having hunting issues as well after my tune. Adjusted it from .34v to .45v at idle last week and that seems to be fixed.

My cold start is pretty bad.. keep it cranking for a split second after its started otherwise it gurgles and struggles for a couple seconds. Might need to look into getting it fixed soon otherwise I'll be struggling when winter actually arrives.

Reminds me I need to do the AAC on the 33. Hunts when the A/C is on.

It used to struggle on first cold start of the day and yeah had to touch the throttle to fix.

Ever since I put a non return valve in the fuel line, it has NEVER done it again.

I just give mine a little feather on the gas. Old shtbox that it is i dont expect any better. :no:

Rubbing back the clear, more sanding, just finer, i must have sanded everything at least 30 times by now.

This is the last one, no more sanding after this. Thank rajabajaba. :worship:

:woot: Soon the Shiney Shine.

Good stuff! I was having hunting issues as well after my tune. Adjusted it from .34v to .45v at idle last week and that seems to be fixed.

My cold start is pretty bad.. keep it cranking for a split second after its started otherwise it gurgles and struggles for a couple seconds. Might need to look into getting it fixed soon otherwise I'll be struggling when winter actually arrives.

Clean aac valve as it is far easier, however if that fails the actual cold start valve under the plenum may need cleaning. It is painful to get too hence trying aac first. What's your idle rpm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...