Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clean aac valve as it is far easier, however if that fails the actual cold start valve under the plenum may need cleaning. It is painful to get too hence trying aac first. What's your idle rpm?

Ah ok cheers. PFC says 850

Haha mine has been idling at like 1400 for the past 2 years. Tried to adjust and just gave up

have you adjusted the aac valve the recessed srew on the left side of the plenum, or just the tb screw?

SkyWagon's New O2 sensor arrived today so I Installed it and reset the ECU.

Also gave her a new Phat earth wire from the block to Chassis. (original from exhaust manifold was removed when the extractors went on)

Got the High Beams working properly too. (2 out of the 4 bulbs weren't lighting up which I didn't realise)

have you adjusted the aac valve the recessed srew on the left side of the plenum, or just the tb screw?

Both and also played with the TPS.

I think it's caused by a faulty TPS but I could never be bothered trying to work it out.

Both and also played with the TPS.

I think it's caused by a faulty TPS but I could never be bothered trying to work it out.

Ah k fair enough. Yeah I'm pretty sure if I disconnect one of the plugs to the top its will idle about 1400

Old is New Again. (well at least for me) :D

Looking at getting a Reco'd Dizzy second hand as mine has a nice grinding going on at a certain RPM.
So Cap, Rotor Button, CAS and Bearing should be fresh-ish.

Just drove to the shops and back, seems alot smoother and more powaaah!

Might do the KLG plugs and new leads real soon.

Yeah traffic was pretty quiet too, which was expected with it being a week day.

Spotted a 33 4door doing laps as we pulled in :D

We will just check out the motor racing museum tomorrow then head back home

Edited by dontyellpl0x

ohhh 5hiv just be careful where the tolerances may change due to heat or the thickness of the paint specially on the injector seals. It would suck to see them pissing through that part.

Yea i got another stock rail as well :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...