Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much Killer Wasps now? (compared to before?)

with injectors and plenum by themselves

+15 wasps and -3psi boost :)

same Ramp Rate (RR) and Dyno set up as previous run!!@!

overall temp (according to Nismo) but have no way of telling easily is supposedly down 18%

Fuel economy (again according to Nismo) 4% better but bugger all realy I would think.

Plenum is supposedly worth 2-5Kws. So if you haven't got all the fruit then spend your money elsewhere (Suspension, tyres etc..)

Plenum provides an extra litre of air (fact) and reduces the need for the 32 to be tuned so rich for cylinder 5/6.

this ^ is what I have read. SO tech heads, mechs and numpty's who wish to debate - go away and Mass <---

ID 1000's make it easier on your tuner :) besides the other benefits.

Currently running at 55% of fuel pressure capcity, so got some head room left (80% is close to max out)

So I was in sydney yesterday in the stupid 45 degree heat, stuck in traffic.

"hey babe, what is that smell and why is there steam on the front window"

OH BOY!!

Pulled over and found out the top tank was leaking something chronic.

Thankfully I had a mate who was working at just jap who was kind enough to let me buy an alloy radiator over the phone and deliver it out o me with some tools. We got the old one out, as we were putting the new one in we realized the drain bung on mine was in a different place to the alloy one.

Problem?

No worries, worked out we could use one of the plastic cell inspection plugs on my battery and screw it into the radiator.

Filled it up, bled the air out and made it back to Canberra by about midnight with less than 100ml leaking out from the bush mechanic drain plug.

Still hell cheaper than a tow back.

Past few days I've been repairing and prepping a Type M ??? front lip (waaaaaay too windy to paint yesterday), did it today ! Put it on and some of my fiber glassing cracked. :(

But it's on. :thumbsup: Only did it Black but may eventually do it in the KN6 Dark Grey Pearl it should be.

post-78856-0-31014900-1358587142_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-21866500-1358587198_thumb.jpg

I reckon it looks Phat ! :woot: Just gotta cut n polish it.

Also swapped over to a manual centre console (so I don't have the Auto Power switch hole anymore) and slapped a Skyline H pattern sticker on it.

Pulled out some old wirings and switches I still had in there from the "High Boost Mod". (don't need anymore as I have had an R32 actuator for a while now.)

Question : Is it a legal thing that you Must have the gear pattern visible in the car? as in, on the gear Knob or elsewhere? either way it's there now.

i put them up tomorrow, tyre fitting joint put two of my tyres ( even though they are slicks the have arrows) on the wrong way. so its looking funny atm

trackday with circuit club, just havent been out for awhile - starting to get itchy fingers...

Heres some crappy pics, i get some better one over the wend.

2013-01-23191947.jpg

2013-01-23191834.jpg

2013-01-23191933.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...