Little problem

[huskyboy]

Hi all

Im hoping this is the correct place to ask this question

A m8 gave me the link to this site , hopeing i could maybe get some advice

I have a 88 skyline which untill recently has been going allright

But just last week , its been dying on me

I drive for say 10km - 10 mins roughly

then it starts spluttering and eventually just dies

It winds over fine , but wont start

If i leave it for say 30 mins it starts fine and goes for another 10 mins

At first i thought it was a blocked fuel filter and just using the fuel its got then dying , so i replaced the filter and its still doing it

Now im thinking its a temp prob

I took my airflow meter out and it still has the 3 wires in it , so i dont think its that

But maybe a sensor ??

Could it be that sensor thing that bolts in the the exhaust-extractors ??

Air filter is new also

I know i cant get an answer for my troubles

Just after a idea what it MIGHT be

I think i will have to take it into nissan i suppose

or if any one knows someone on the gold coast that has a clue

please any ideas would be great

Just aint loaded at the moment to be frowing money around on something that wont help

Thanks people

[OYEAHA]

could be fuel pump?

[rb25]

huskyboy - dont take it to nissan, take it to gavin wood, hes a great general mechanic as well as a skyline specialist and doesnt charge outrageous rates. he'll have it sorted in no time.

-rb25

[Nexus9]

[predator]

Its the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS). As it says, indicates the position of the crank which the engine uses to determine the timing. I think that is what it does anyhow.

One of the most common problems on the RB30E i think.

I used to have it in my old R31. Would be driving along, and just cutout completely. Would eventually start, but could take from 5 mins to 1 hour! Would happen when i would least want it to happen too. Anyhow, mechanic fixed and was fine till i sold it.

So yeah... 95% sure its that.

[huskyboy]

I dont think it is the fuel pump because

when it stopped on me the other day , i pulled the hose off the fuel filter and it was full of fuel

Where abouts is Gavin Wood located rb25 ?? on the goldie ?

Predator that sound s like what mine is doing

Where abouts is that sensor ? You remember how much it cost to replace ??

Thanks guys

[skitzedR32]

had same problem doubt its the CAS more like o2sensor or water temp sensor if you can smell fuell whe cranking it its your o2 sensor for sure bout 100 bucks and 20 min work if you handy

[predator]

Why would water temp senor stop the car? If that is bogus I'd imagine the car would still continue to run. I don't think it has an automatic cut-out for water temp?? And if buggered, your temp guage would be all over the place.

o2 sensor is another target, or the CAS as they do commonly fail. Sounds very similar to my old problem, and that was CAS related.

Anyhow, take it to gavin wood (or any other competent mechanic for that matter as its a local car).. check the QLD area and do a search for the address.

When you get it fixed, make sure you come back and post what the problem was for future reference

[blind_elk]

predator, RB30s run dizzies, not CASs.

huskyboy, the engine will generally continue to run with a faulty / malfunctioniong sensor. I'd have some money on a faulty coil ignitor module in the distributor.

[huskyboy]

Ok i rang Gavin Wood

straight up he said it was the crank angle sensor

Going to see if i can pick 1 up next few days

Damn dear suckas

repco has em for $339

Anyone know where i could get 1 cheaper ??

Would it be safe to buy 1 from a wreckers ??

He is to busy to do the work himself ( going rallying )

Is it a tricky thing to change ??

Thinking of getting me m8 to have a go

hes pretty cluey on cars

Can we do any major damage ??

LOL

[huskyboy]

Ok bought the crank angle sensor

Got it pt in no probs , very simnple to do

Worked well for about a week now

Wasnt stopping but still didnt feel right

Now today i went for a drive from the goldie to Ballina

Hr and bit drive

Stupid thing shititself there

Same type prob started spluttering and eventually stopped

I went to a m8 for an hr or so then car went well

Left it there and hitched back to the goldie

Peice of shit

Going to have to take it into a mechanic next week

O well

[MegaGTS4]

If there is no spark:

The System uses an LED crank angle sensor (CAS) within the distributor to generate a speed signal (360-degree for timing) and a position signal (120-degree signal) for the computer (ECU). The ECU then uses these 2 signals to generate a trigger to the power transistor (PT) bolted to the outside of the distributor. The PT uses this trigger to switch the -ve coil to ground to generate spark.

1 On top of the distributor is a 4 pin harness plug - this is the crank angle sensor. With this plug removed test the voltage on each pin of the female harness plug against ground (engine earth/battery -ve) with the ignition on (KOEO).

2 Should have 12v (battery volts from the EFI relay), earth (Ov), and on the remaining 2 pins - 5v on each (from ECU).

3 Ensure the distributor shaft is turning during cranking - cam belt.

4 With the engine cranking these 2 wires which had 5v on each are the important signals you are after - expect approx. 2.3v on one and 0.3v on the other. If the CAS has failed expect close to 5v OR close to 0.0v on one or both. If the signals are BOTH within 20% of specs., then

5 Check the signal from the ECU to the PT (fawn wire onto PT). If ECU is generating the correct signal expect approx. 0.4v. If a greater voltage, then you have an earth problem. If 0.0v then the ECU is not outputting the signal - ECU failed. If correct signal but still no spark then the PT has failed to switch the coil (rare) or the coil has failed (common).

6 To check the PT is switching the coil, use a normal test light from the +ve battery to the -ve coil (brown/red at PT). Your light should illuminate with KOF (ignition key off), and when the coil is switched to ground through the PT during cranking. If your test light flashes during cranking then PT is doing its job so coil has failed. If no flashing then PT has failed. Or if test light constantly lit, then PT has failed.

Another common problem with the 3-litre Nissan engine is where the idle deteriorates to the point where it will not even run. Before that happens there is an initial loss of power, which just gets worse. A prime cause of this is the Air Mass Meter drifting beyond specifications - check the load pin (3rd in from back of engine - white wire) against an earth should have KOEO no less than 1.26v (excessive lean) and no more 1.32v (rich). If this load setting base is out, you won't be able to adjust the idle mixture (1st pin in from front of AMM) factory lean at 3.6v to richer say 2.0v to a satisfactory mixture - AMM will need replacing

MEGA