Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Stagea owners...

Well the time has come to get a bigger car - so I am going to have to sell my beloved Ralliart Colt (awesome little beast, putting down 209hp). So I am thinking of getting a Stagea, actually I am pretty sure I am getting one, I just need some advice from some of you guys who have been the Stagea world for some time... there are two that I am thinking of buying.

I am located in WA, but am prepared to buy interstate and drive it back... seeing as cars are stupid expensive over here!!

The first that I am thinking about is:

http://www.carsales....%5d&sort=~Price

For some reason that ARX model with the flared wheel arches looks cool to me, what are the general opinions of the ARX?

The interior colour of that car changes between pictures from "Okay" to "holy hell that colour looks satan sharted and sprayed the interior of the car with it!" I am hoping that it's the milder yellow in most of the pictures, not the oversaturated colour.

I don't plan on doing much modifying, I got that out of my system with the RColt, and it was a resounding success there, but I found that I never actually bothered to track the car or anything after all the modifying!!

I am just after a bigger car that is still quick to drive, with decent interior space for the niece and nephew (all under 5 years of age) so that my wife and I can take them to the beach and park etc. 5 seats is a plus over the 4 seats in the RColt.

Any thoughts on that car above though?

Edited by bunnybash
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415787-which-one-would-you-choose/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Looks ok. I know you're not planning on doing much modifying, but budget for a dump pipe and full exhaust, and a turbo, because unless they've been replaced already they'll need to be done.

how much should I be budgeting for the dump, zorst and turbo...

Not sure on real world prices for these things as my car was a "test pilot" for RPW so got them crazy cheap...

Any thoughts on the ARX model and I noticed in one of the pics that there is some kind of switches or something high up on the drivers A pillar, anyone know what they might be for?

Nice arx. Front grill is for cruise control model as is steering wheel.nice. piller switch may be blue tooth for sterio but to make it interesting id say ejector seat. Dump is $480. Full zorst anywhere from 600 - 1700 (nismo cat back) char ching. Turbo is bout 1500 fitted give or take. Bango drill out to 1.5mm priceless.

Thanks for all the info and help so far!! What is "Bango drill" by the way?

I think that's M35 speak for drill out the banjo on the oil supply line to the turbo for increased flow and hopefully longer turbo life.

Have you looked at an M 35 Axis?

much much nicer IMO.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?tabID=3012965&base=1216&vertical=Car&eapi=2&N=1246 1252 1247 1282 1216&silo=Stock&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&items=[Make:NISSAN,Model:STAGEA,BaseEnabledBadge:AUTECH AXIS]&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-stagea-2002-12621779?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1246+1252+1247+1282+1216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price:Min,15000~0.5&items=%5bMake:NISSAN,Model:STAGEA,BaseEnabledBadge:AR-X%20FOUR%5d&sort=~Price

lol oops!!!

That is the second one there...

I fully expect it to be night and day to my RColt - which is heavily modded and power to weight ratio is quite high... car is light, and freakin noisy!!

I plan on going to test drive one over here this week, but there doesn't seem to be any good ones over here at the moment which is why I am planning to fly over east and drive one back to Perth.

Yeah wow, can't believe I forgot to put the second car in!!!

Depends what you're looking for, second one isn't an ARX but has a couple of different options.

I'd budget about $2k for the turbo too, but it depends on what you go for and who fits it.

As mentioned above, go test drive and inspect a few Stageas local to you....

Then come and inspect my Axis that's for sale and you can drive back home in it. Ultimate family wagon.

Check out the link as per my signature.

As mentioned above, go test drive and inspect a few Stageas local to you....

Then come and inspect my Axis that's for sale and you can drive back home in it. Ultimate family wagon.

Check out the link as per my signature.

i would buy yours in a heart beat for 12k!!! :) That's about the limit of my budget though :( If you are desperate to sell let me know and I won't even bother test driving any, the money will be in your account within 20mins haha

i would buy yours in a heart beat for 12k!!! :) That's about the limit of my budget though :( If you are desperate to sell let me know and I won't even bother test driving any, the money will be in your account within 20mins haha

12K? If you are patient enough and don't need it straight away, contact Iron Chef and import one yourself

That said, there are a couple for sale on here that would be a nice fit so have a search :)

my old car is up for sale. its in Sydney, and got a WHOLE load of nismo goodies on it :)

got a link?

12K? If you are patient enough and don't need it straight away, contact Iron Chef and import one yourself

That said, there are a couple for sale on here that would be a nice fit so have a search :)

just cause i am new to this forum who is iron chef?? i have googled it but no surprise it comes up with the TV show and that is all!!! :(

thanks so much for all the help so far guys!!

Edited by bunnybash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...