Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've been putting an RB26 into an ENR34 over the last couple of days with some mates (we're accountants, so absolutely no useful skills to bring to the table here). Mechanically the car is good to go, however we've come across a hurdle. Yep, you guessed it - wiring.

I've done a search and there hasn't been a great deal of *useful* information in this regard, so I was hoping there might be a guru or two out there who could shed some light on the easiest possible method to approach this - here are the options we've come up with:

1. Send the RB25DE & RB26DETT looms to Sideshows Performance and have them re-wire it. I haven't looked into this much more than a google search or two, so no idea on cost or turn-around.

2. Re-wire the RB25DE loom into the RB26DETT loom using the pinouts.

3. Run 2 individual ECUs, one for the RB25DE bottom harness (fuse box stuff and alternator, gearbox, starter motor etc etc) and the other for the RB26DETT for the engine specific items, and wiring in anything additional that might be needed (eg injector resistor pack).

- If anyone has done this before and knows of an easier method to do this, please let me know.

- If anyone has used this Sideshows Performance and can share their experience / cost / turnaround that'd be great; or

- If anyone can suggest (with certainty) which would be the easiest for us to do, that'd be most excellent too. Please bear in mind the above information regarding me and the other guys being utter noobs at wiring, however we can read and understand pin-out diagrams. We just don't know if the method we were planning would be the right approach or not.

p.s the pin-out diagrams we were looking at are R34 non-GTR and R32 GTR from the respective service manuals.

Thanks all.

tl;dr:

put rb26 into 4wd R34

wiring is issue

what is the best approach to re-wire it in?

...(we're accountants, so absolutely no useful skills to bring to the table here).

We weren't that bad, were we! :teehee: hehe

With regard to point 2 above, we just have no idea where to start. As mentioned, we have ECU and wiring schematics for both the RB25DE and the RB26DETT however somehow we have ended up with the original RB25 lower harness still connected to the fusebox etc, and the RB26 lower harness went in with the car which I think was partially connected to the gearbox and perhaps the starter motor? Anyhoo - we now have 2 sets of battery terminal connections etc.

Advice muchly appreciated! :worship:

So annoying because the engine is just sitting there begging to be started! :w00t:

are you using a standard or aftermarket ecu...

either way I'd think just use the rb26 ecu and then just rewire according to the CORRECT R34 pinout diagrams.....

Cant be too hard though Im sure it will be :P

the workshop i used for my conversion, Rb26 into a GTS4, so using the same rb25de ecu as you - im certain that he mated the wiring, So option 2, There is also a bloke on here that will do it for you if you send him the looms. Not sure how much he charges.

P.s im am using a PFC, Not the 25 ecu

What series RB26 is it? If its an R34 RB26 you can retain much of the RB25DE loom & engine sensors and simply plug up to the RB26. You'll have to make something up for the TPS to mount correctly or rewire the TPS plug. Then get a Nistune fitted to the RB25DE ECU and chuck a RB26 map onto it. Will need to upgrade to a Z32 AFM or something also. If its an R32/33 RB26 then you'll need to rewire the CAS plug and the same with the TPS.

Alternatively, you can use the RB26 engine loom and ECU, and make the wiring changes required to get power into and out of the loom at the dash plug near the ECU. The problem here is that if you have anything but an R34 RB26, you'll have to cut out some of the old R34 RB25DE loom which carries ABS and the wiper/passenger side indicator wiring. Theres also the alternator and knock sensor loom you'll need to cut out of the RB25DE loom and move that into the 26 loom.

Not any easy job by any approach unfortunately, especially if you have a non R34 RB26 in there.

It's an R32 RB26.

Standard ECU. Problem with just "wiring in the pin outs" is that the harness contains wires not related to the ECU. It's pretty hard to just drop the other harness in and leave it loose as there is only enough room for one harness through the firewall. I think the best approach is to remove both harnesses, split and combine. Would be nice to get a proper harness drawing and not just a pin out drawing.

Has anyone seen something like that ?

Mitch, can you do away with the R34 ecu completely once the R32 ecu is installed or does that contain any non engine info like abs, bcm type stuff ?

R34 ECU doesnt need to be there to run anything. ABS and all that have their own ECU's. You just need to patch together the corresponding wires in the body loom plug thats about 30cm up from the ECU end of the loom on each one, so that the R32 loom can get its power feeds and signals into and out of the ECU to the dash, fuel pump relay etc etc.

You can see someone in the process of doing this here: http://lh3.ggpht.com.../s640/photo.jpg

About 30cm up from the ECU end of the loom is the body plug. This is various in/out signals to/from the ECU to things like tach signal, speed signal, A/C signal, power feeds etc etc.

The problem is that the R34 loom also carries more through the firewall compared to the R32 loom. The R34 loom has passenger indicator, ABS, and some power feeds that connect down near the headlight too. All of these need to be removed from the R34 loom and added into the R32 loom.

If you dont have the patience to dismantle both looms and collect full wiring diagrams of each in order to know what needs to go where, then send it on to someone that does. You'll pay a fee but it will literally be plug and play. Theres nothing worse than assembling a custom wiring loom thinking you have everything correct, only to have missed an ECCS relay wire and have nothing work. Pull it out, start again. Not fun.

Hi guys, thank you very much for the information, especially Mitch

We'll pull the harness out and see how much of a job it'll be in that case to splice it all in as per what is happening in the pic; we've got all the pin-outs etc.

If worse comes to worst, we'll just have to call it, send it off to one of these PnP experts and plug it in that way

Cheers guys!

http://2.bp.blogspot...ing+Diagram.jpg

Is something like that any more help to you?

Edit: Nevermind, just re-read your first post.. I feel stupid now :P

Edited by _x_FiReStOrM_x_

Don Dada, the GT-Four was a manual originally, and the 26 is from an R32. To start with the ECU will be stock but may be swapped later for a PowerFC/Link or perhaps a Nistune type arrangement. I can't imagine the 4WD will be a big drama because as far as I understand it also runs off its own ECU.

Mitch_Rona, many thanks for your help mate, much appreciated. We're going to take a look on the weekend and see how far we get. I don't suppose you have anyone that you would recommend to do the wiring merge? I note your signature makes mention of electrical work! :woot: hehe. :domokun:

James, I see you're over in Perth. I've got a mate who's an absolute wiring guru over there (i think the NOR area) and he would be able to do the job pretty easily. I can put him in touch with you if you want?

Well being originally manual takes lots of headache out of the equation as auto ecu "interacts" alot more with abs and attesa units and would have made it very difficult.

Well....Its should be as simple as removing the 25 engine harness,separate the abs and what ever other body harness from it, and then replace with the 26 harness, and wire that in to the car via the white plug as shown above

Thanks Mitch,

We'll get the 25 harness out on sat and have a look. I stripped the 26 harness down and found about 14 wires which will need to be cut and spliced into the 25 harness.

What would be handy is the pin outs for the 2 main plugs that are up in front of the strut tower. Would be nice to know if I can just plug the 26 harness directly in or not, rather than having to chase all the wires down and find out where they go.

The r32 loom will take some power feeds from that plug near the headlight. However the r34 loom gets all its power from the large white plug up near the ecu. There is approximately zero information out there in regards to pinout information of this plug in the r34.

If you can find someone with an r34 electrical circuit schematic book, ask them to take a photo of the dual a3 size diagram and post it here. I'm currently searching for it too as I'm about to wire a haltech in and the pinout for this plug would be super handy. :)

James, I see you're over in Perth. I've got a mate who's an absolute wiring guru over there (i think the NOR area) and he would be able to do the job pretty easily. I can put him in touch with you if you want?

Cheers Mitch, that might end up being an option! As VFRregal mentioned, we'll give it a crack this weekend and if it's way too far beyond us I'll get in touch with you :)

Hopefully we can pull a rabbit out of a hat! :bunny:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...