Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day ppl,

Thought Id start this thread to show you a custom set of ER34/BNR34 HID HLs that I'm going to be finishing hopefully this weekend.

The custom projector HLs that I've seen on the net so far look like Sh!t tbh...

Here are the specs & parts list for the HLs:

* Full Satin Black finish using VHT Prime Coat SP305. Produces an effortless smooth finish

* Honda Euro (aka: TSX) HID projectors sourced by Jesse Streeter off Yahoo Auctions Japan

* 2.5" TSX-R clear lenses from TheRetrofofitSource . com

* 3" OEM E46 shrouds with the XENON logo. Sourced from eBay

Let the pix begin:

RHS HL pulled apart. High beam reflector masked up to keep dust free:

image-2327.jpg

OEM E46 shroud will be retrofitted to sit inside the HID reflector:

image-2386.jpg

Pic of both XENON logos. Unfortunately, the R34 one has to go:

image-1589.jpg

The reflector is attached to the HL housing at 3 points. I took these pics so I could see the position on the adjustment screw for when it comes time to removing the reflector off the HL.

image-2458.jpg

image-618.png

Here's a pic of the Honda Euro projector disassembled. The cut off shield is masked and ready for paint:

image-2464.jpg

Close up:

image-1501.jpg

Projector cutoff shield after 2 coats of VHT Red paint:

image-1061.jpg

image-662.jpg

Crappy OEM fresnel lense vs Aftermarket TSX-R clear lense. You can see "swirling" effect on the lense. This is designed to blur the output. The TSX-Rs will sharpen it all up:

image-1748.jpg

Blurry OEM output:

image-1703.jpg

Output with the TSX-R clear lense:

image-1696.jpg

OEM output close up:

image-2138.jpg

TSX-R output close up:

image-1229.jpg

Making way for the projector

image-1290.jpg

Trial fittment:

image-619.jpg

image-1483.jpg

Quick mock up of the reflector / projector / shroud:

image-1466.jpg

image1229-.jpg

Stay tuned for more updates

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417403-custom-er34-bnr34-hid-headlights/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow you are extremely game, chopping up a set of 34 headlights, but am definitely keen to se how it turns out!

Not a cheap exercise if you get it wrong, thumbs up for going to the effort :thumbsup:

Yeah I'm "extremely game" and I've been known to "get it wrong" most of the time :)

You have no idea shinobi_s14 on what a "ballsy move" I'm doing to your HLs. Ask the last guy how impressed he was when I was "slicing and dicing" his Kia HLs

Check out my username, "EvoXenoN" for google pix of all the headlights that I've stuffed up HERE.. So funny!!!

^ he's game cause they're my HL's haha. But nah Steve knows what he's doing. He's work is nothing short of perfect, can't wait til they're done

You've got balls to let someone chop it up! but keen to see the end result, I really want projectors on mine as well. might yet Steven to do it too if hes offering services :)

UPDATE #2

RHS HL fitted to car and ready for the projector to be rotationally aligned before getting permanently fixed in

image-1963.jpg

Centre of the projector lense is measured to the ground. The figure in this case is 590mm

image-1041.jpg

I didn't have a long stretch of wall to test and align the output so I improvised. I stacked up a few orange containers and stuck A4 pieces of paper in the middle. The light will shine somewhere in the middle of the paper across all three stacks. They've been placed about 5m from the car

image-1276.jpg

Close up of the A4 paper showing a strip of black electrical tape stuck on. The top edge of the electrical tape is measured at 565mm from the ground. This is 25mm lower than the height of the middle of the projector to the ground. The low beam output will be aligned to this height.

image-227.jpg

Here's a pic showing the Honda Euro projector in the low beam reflector

image-894.jpg

Close up of one of the corner shows the application of JB Weld to help bond the projector to the reflector. I did this on 2 other areas and waited about 20min for the bond to harden

image-1987.jpg

OEM reflectors removed from the HL housing then more JB Weld applied around the projector.

image-2369.jpg

Projector body and lense masked for paint

image-2090.jpg

Blacked out

image-1004.jpg

XENON logo masked on the OEM E46 shroud and ready for about 3 coats of white paint. It takes me about 1hr to mask one shroud... That's 2hrs right there.. Lots of tiny pieces of masking tape

image-1213.jpg

Parker housing masked as the surrounding area will be blacked out

image-2249.jpg

Everything fitted up minus the lenses. They were quite yellow from oxidation that they wouldn't show any detail of the work I've done

image2345-.jpg

Stay tuned for when the HLs are polished + install pix...

^^ cheers...

And ppl thought I had balls to hack into R34 HLs...... Niggah pls!!!!

It is pretty ballsy to be honest, I didn't have enough nuts to do it but you look like you know what you're doing. You have PM :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...