Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wen't for a long drive on the weekend to Londsdale (about 25-30kms) and we were giving it some stick on the way (Me: R32 GTR, friend: R32 GTSt). All was fine until we took a wrong turn and ended up near a factory of some sort and had relatively no traffic. As you could imagine, we went for a quick burst and the next thing I know I hear a clunk and a rattle then something bouncing out from under the car!

It turns out the idler bearing for AC belt siezed and just ripped off, my friend almost had a new hole ripped out of his intercooler and missed it by a couple of metres.

Anyone else had the feeling of 'Oh shit!' when driving (mechanically related) not accidents...just parts falling off the engine...hehe :wassup:

fark had that happen on my old cc gsr while back redlined in 2nd and the clunk rattle and bang the bolt that holds the alternator went god knows where, i live up north of adelaide and this happens 3am in victor harbour drove home wid no tunes that nite

hope you got it fixed

I was driving down port road a few months ago and the bolts out of the top bush in my front suspension fell out!! lucky i was going very slow or it could have been very nasty. My cars has some sort of camber adjustment kit on the front and whoever put those bolts in did a shithouse job, they were the wrong type and had fken grease on em.

I was in the car with my dad a while back, he had a new BA Falcon, as we were driving along, heard a big clunk, but we thought it was just a branch as it was quite windy that day and there was debris all over the road. Eventually the power steering went, the battery light came on, it wouldnt idle, everything was phucked. Turns out the idler pulley had come clean off and caused the rest of the drive belt to get shredded up!

I had an alternator bolt drop off on my old Integra VTi-R. Scared the shit out of me as i was redlining at 8000rpm and the bolt hit the floorpan so loudly.

I've had a brake pad come off in my first car, Prelude Si. Sounded like a train. :)

had a mates 180 flywheel obliterate, some bits went thru his bonnet, some at his feet thru the firewall, and the other 1/4 we found 1 month later wedged behind the ecu, its almost back on the road after 6 months, it also cut straight thru the steering and exhaust and bent the turbo, cut a fuel line and damaged plenty of hoses... was a mighty bang, also chopped halfway thru the left chassis rail

Intercooler pipes popping off at high boost and pushin hard always jolted me into thinking i blew something

Once on the freeway on the way home one latenight, it had been a long while since pushing my car abit, so in 3rd i gave it a tramping when seconds later *PHOOOMP* the pipe from the front mount exit to the second section that leads into the engine bay had popped off, then dragged on the ground, snarled on something and ripped it off...went over the pipe with my front and rear wheel

i squashed it gewd :)

abit of a pain looking for a pipe on a cold midnight evening on a freeway :S

lucky i dont have an AFM

been driving the 4wd to go away for the weekend.. we were just about to hit the freeway when the back wheel's studs sheered off, the back end grazed along the road and the wheel overtook us, hit a tree and flew about 5-10meters into the air.

we looked out the sunroof to see a wheel coming down towards us. It just missed the car door bounced again and landed in front of the car on the road. Thankgod this didnt happen when we were out in wh00p wh00p 4wd'ing.

also had my intercooler pipes burst loose when i was under full load in the 32.. scared the shit out of me for a minute or two :)

Shaun

Ended up replacing all belts because the AC belt rubbed against both the timing belt and the power steering...while I was at it, I wen't for the full service so there goes my 100K kms service ;) (I doubt my car was legit at 64K kms).

Oh well...at least I have peace of mind now!

Now...on to fixing more important things...like my clock :D

Blew a diff centre at the traffic lights, loudest rumble/crunch I've ever had.

Blew a spark plug out of a motorbike head at 140kph, on a twin cylinder, that was pants $hitting stuff, thought the demons of hell had been let loose, its right under your nose, next to your head, the sparkplug is still in orbit somewhere.

Used to have a Mini Clubman GT 1972, driving on the freeway @100km/h taking a swooping bend, and realise I have no steering .... luck was on my side, I had just enough steering to get me through the bend, and my mechanic was virtually a straight run with no turns about 10k's away.

Was down at Calder having a few runs one Fri night... did my last run and popped the bonnet to let it cool a bit and found oil EVERYWHERE! Panicked badly for a few minutes trying to find the problem before I realised I hadn't replaced the dipstick properly... very messy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...