Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have just brought an R32 gts-t with RB20det

After a while it developed a misfire, i pulled the plugs and noticed #6 was totally black while the others where white/grey like they should be

So i did the following things

- Test coil packs and swap them around

- Replace coil pack loom

- Compression test 158-163 across all cylinder s

- replace spark plugs

....but it continued to foul #6 after a while, people would look at the fouled plug and tell me its fouled by fuel

so then i

- had injector cleaned and flow tested (thinking injector #6 was dribbling, it tested fine)

- leak down test on #6 cylinder which got 85%

....but it still fouls continually #6, runs better with nice clean injectors but still fouls #6 and develops a misfire ?

when i come back from a drive remove #6 plug to check it i look down the spark plug hole and the piston looks very wet

Anyone have any ideas ???

Maybe an ECU fault ?

Who and when was your last tune done ?

That's where i'd be looking based on the actions you have undertaken so far. (AFR's)

Edit: compression looked okay. Leakdown on remaining cylinders ? other than 6 ?

your compression results are excellent for an rb20det I've checked a dozen or so and most are not above the 140psi range...

the first thing I'd do is check the ecu for fault codes and go from there, quite possibly a faulty igniter module or ecu...

your compression results are excellent for an rb20det I've checked a dozen or so and most are not above the 140psi range...

the first thing I'd do is check the ecu for fault codes and go from there, quite possibly a faulty igniter module or ecu...

Tried another igniter module and it was still misfiring, although plug was fouled by then

15% leakdown is not good. How does it compare with the others? Try a hotter plug in that cylinder.

Didnt test amy other cylinder with leakdown test, came with BCPR6ES gonna get some 5's tomorrow but all that will do is prolong the fouling

Suggesting missfiring in 6 not burning fuel. Smarts

Dont think there is a misfire before the plug has fouled, the car idles sweet and revs clean all the way to 7000rpm untill #6 fouls

Thanks for ideas everyone

Just put the hotter plug in #6. There's no reaon why it will "prolong the fouling". It will either cure it or it won't.

The BCPR6ES's i had in there foul pretty quickly, tried a BCPR7ES that i had hanging around and that fouled just driving down the street.As hotter plugs are not as prone to fouling i thought id try some 5 heat range plugs which would not foul as quickly but im sure will eventualy foul. Pretty sure it is not the heat range of the plugs which is causing the fouling

what condition is the coil pack harness in? changing the plug isn't going to solve the problem , put a multimetre on the plug for the coil pack with the car running and test the voltage getting to the coil pack

The coil pack harness was replaced with a good cond s/h one, have tested the continuity of the ignitor but yeah ill test voltages running to the coils

Had another thought, the engine may have blown a headgasket then been chemiwelded, the chemiweld has sealed the water passages up so no oil or exhaust charge is getting into them but oil is getting into cylinder #6 which is causing the fouling.

But i thought the leakdown test would have shown this???

The BCPR6ES's i had in there foul pretty quickly, tried a BCPR7ES that i had hanging around and that fouled just driving down the street.As hotter plugs are not as prone to fouling i thought id try some 5 heat range plugs which would not foul as quickly but im sure will eventualy foul. Pretty sure it is not the heat range of the plugs which is causing the fouling

The coil pack harness was replaced with a good cond s/h one, have tested the continuity of the ignitor but yeah ill test voltages running to the coils

Had another thought, the engine may have blown a headgasket then been chemiwelded, the chemiweld has sealed the water passages up so no oil or exhaust charge is getting into them but oil is getting into cylinder #6 which is causing the fouling.

But i thought the leakdown test would have shown this???

Your leakdown test was what I understand to be in the unacceptable range (15% leak) so yes there is an underlying problem. Who did the leakdown test and did they offer any analysis? My engine runs fine without fouling plugs - my compressions are way below yours but a leakdown test resulted in 5% to 8% range - not flash but I have no discernable problems.

I am not suggesting that incorrect heat range for the plugs is your problem - I'm just suggesting you try a hotter plug (or full set if you're so inclined) to see if it will fix your symptoms short of pulling the engine and stripping it down.

Your leakdown test was what I understand to be in the unacceptable range (15% leak) so yes there is an underlying problem. Who did the leakdown test and did they offer any analysis? My engine runs fine without fouling plugs - my compressions are way below yours but a leakdown test resulted in 5% to 8% range - not flash but I have no discernable problems.

I did the leakdown test and my analysis in i think my engine i trucked

I am not suggesting that incorrect heat range for the plugs is your problem - I'm just suggesting you try a hotter plug (or full set if you're so inclined) to see if it will fix your symptoms short of pulling the engine and stripping it down.

Yeah replaced all spark plugs with 5 heat range as overtightened thermostat housing and broke it so cant drive car till i get a new one :-(

Thanks for your help

I'd get the injectors flow tested. The injector might be a bit leaky and pouring excess fuel in

yeah had that done

marked #6 injector and it was tested first and tested fine, two others ended up being leaky so two s/h replacements and cleaning and flowing cost me $260 to not fix the problem :-(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...