Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Stagea has a random TPS error that triggers limp mode and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction with regards to troubleshooting the problem. This is my first fly by wire car, so TPS issues like this I am foreign to.

From what I understand the M35 Service Manual isn't available in English but the V35/G35 manual is a good reference for this sort of problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418225-m35-tps-troubleshooting/
Share on other sites

Best idea would be to try to borrow a working unit from someone, and try that out. If that works, grab one from the wreckers off a V35 / Z33. I think they are the same. But watch out for any unit that has a hole drilled in the plate.

I don't think there are any replaceable parts within the unit itself. But someone will correct me if I am wrong.

I tried to rip a throttle unit apart to clean the TPS carbon tracks but i'm fairly sure it failed. They are definitely not a serviceable part.

Seeing Nissan want $1800 for a new throttle unit and these are failing like hotcakes I would grab any second hand VQ throttle you can get. A 350z/V35 one will fit, I am running a VQ25DD throttle at the moment due to the same fault.

If you need a hand with clearing the codes, resetting the idle or changing the throttle over, a quick search and you will find the information on here. Otherwise PM me if you need someone to do the work for you.

Thanks for your help guys, I'll try source a VQ throttle and give it a go. $1800 seems abit steep lol, a quick search on Ebay and I've found a "New * GENUINE * Nissan 350Z Maxima Throttle Body" with TPS sensor for sub $250

Edited by stealth01

Thanks for your help guys, I'll try source a VQ throttle and give it a go. $1800 seems abit steep lol, a quick search on Ebay and I've found a "New * GENUINE * Nissan 350Z Maxima Throttle Body" with TPS sensor for sub $250

Post up a link to seller, or is it just a single unit?

Yes, whilst I didn't have a Z33 TB, my old VQ25det Stagea had a V35 (VQ35de) throttle body on it without issue.

So between Scott and I, that would mean that 350z, M35 and V35 throttle bodies all fit.

Prossibly J31 Maxima as well although I have not tested this.

What does the seller mean when he says "For your peace of mind this part comes with a 12 month manufacturers warranty at least."

...at least?

I reckon he's bought heaps of these at a clearance sale & will swap any faulty ones for as long as he still has stock.

It's more likely to be the throttle body but the pedal could be the issue. As it's just a glitch that causes the limp mode it is very hard to measure voltage or resistance issues, easier to swap the parts out.

Just to add to this, it seems that when it goes into limp mode, I can turn the car off, tap the pedal input sensor on the pedal afew times, start it up and its fine...

Is the pedal input sensor as interchangeable as the TB seems to be?

From what I understand the M35 Service Manual isn't available in English but the V35/G35 manual is a good reference for this sort of problem.

Jap manual is on here if you want it, can be good for pics and some use with googly translate.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341609-stagea-workshop-manual/page__hl__manual__st__20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...