Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey Munky, if you wanna have a fast car just but a GTT.

if you want to have something differnt and have handling and a bit of "power", get good brakes,susp,rb30 bottom end and all the other things the others where sayin.

but if you dont car if your car is N/A or Forced incudtioned, then why not go the cheaper/better way and go turbo?

have a good think about all the things we have been offering you ( advice ).

Yeh DK I can appreciate your opinion, but the whole point is, I'm not allowed to get a turbo. Insurance would most likely double again, and my parents wouldnt want me in a turbo.

Oh , now i understand, your parents bought you the car so you gotta .. yehp i get you...

well looks like N/A is the go for you till you can get a turbo after your off your P's

Hey Munky - Ive got a 34GT. I used to own a stock S2 R33GTST. Mate obviously the R33 was faster because it was turbo but with all due respect my GT is not that much slower. I dont know if its just the newer NEO engine or just the fact that the GT is lighter, but with a full exhaust, pod, extractors, SAFC and lightweight wheels a R34 GT is quite a quick car.

When my old S2 got stolen, my increase in insurance made it more sensible for me to get a non turbo car, hence the R34GT.

Dont go overboard with the performance side of things because honestly unless u dont care about resale value a turbocharged GT will commandeer less than a GTT.

You're 19 enjoy the line and do a few mods and just learn to love the car.

Im pretty sure i saw your car once when i drove past the dealer u bought it from, looked really nice and clean in white.

well that's around the budget I'm looking at... so here goes

purchase n ship RB25DET from japan, $2000

sell RB20DE - $800 (hypothetically)

TD06 + manifold, wastegate n all the other plumbing bought and shipped from japan - $1800

Hybrid Intercooler - $600 (mates rates)

Exhaust - $800

Power FC $1000

R32 and R33 japanese service manuals - $100

Doing all the work myself - Priceless

Total - $5500

Not too shabby, dunno what power to expect, looking at maybe 230kw

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

can anyone answer this one for me??

if you add a turbo to an engine that was n/a from the factory do you need to lower the compression ratio? if so what is involved in this?

I know 666 dan has said that he is running his with stock compression and i think i read you said about 7psi of boost. is this 7psi the max you could safely get without lowering the compression?

do you need new pistons to lower the compression?

I have a friend who made over 200rwhp out of an rb30na but he stuffed around for years... The headwork was a piece of artwork - I drove the car once - and was more impressed with my ca18det silvia! All I did to it was get a friend to write a chip, 14 psi boost, dump pipe and exhaust. Trust me, I hotted up a red metor once, then dad and I installed a rb20 det after disappointment. I know a rb25 is streets afead of a red moter 202 - but then again a turbo in my opinion is a good step up again.... 200rwkw isn't so impressive after a few weeks - you just get use to it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...