Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all...

Been off here a while now. Good to be back.

Quick question, if you have the stock basic gauges (instrument cluster) are you able to upgrade to the premium model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-07-INFINITI-G35-AUTOMATIC-SPEEDOMETER-OEM-/200821103813?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec1dedcc5&vxp=mtr

That one to be exact.

Ta much

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419469-03-07-gauge-upgrade/
Share on other sites

you guys might want to have a read of this thread......http://g35driver.com/forums/lighting/99235-put-05-06-gauge-cluster-my-03-a.html

and if you can't be bothered, this pic tells a thousand words.....

070109119.jpg

Just guessing, but I don't think it is probably as bad as that pic suggests.. by the look of it, the mess of wires is just someone's home made adaptor cable with connectors for the S1 harness on one end and connectors for the S2 cluster on the other end.. if you can get the correct connectors, the service manuals and some good multicore cable, I am sure you could make up your own adaptors that look much nicer..

Still not a nice 'plug and play' job though..

yeah for sure, the thread basically talks about how he paid for an auto elec to come up with a solution to get the S2 gauge working in his S1 and that was the result. He did a bit of work to make it neater, but it still comes down to the fact that you need to rewire everything.

I have done a little bit of wiring in my time, and learned a few things as I have gone along, but there is no way in hell I would take on that job. To get that many things working perfectly (and lets be honest, what's the point of a gauge that doesn't work perfectly?) would be a literal nightmare. A job best left for the pros, and it would not be cheap!

besides - this would be much cooler.....

0602_impp_14z+2002_subaru_impreza_wrx+stack_gauges.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...