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when will i have to do head bolts and head gasket? at what power or psi can a stock rb25 handle safely ?

Not really a real answer to that one. Its all in the tune. Some people break cars with >300 some people have cars for years with <300.

Mine has been in the 280-300 (dyno dependant) mark for a couple of years now, and gets the living balls thrashed off it on the track. And im not totally gentle on the street when im feeling frisky.

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My build has slightly changed

This what I'm buying for my car

Gtx3076 .83 with 40mm external gate

Hybrid low mount manifold (keep it looking stockish)

Z32 air flow meter

Walbro 400 just in case I go e85

Bosch 1000cc injectors high Inpednce (unsure if they will fit with standard fuel rail) and do the injectors have to be flow rated for each cylinder ?

Unsure if I need ignition coils and fuel reg ?

The car has done 135xxx ks

Any options please tell

Thanks

You are right to be scared, the factory head bolts are good but they won't hold the head down forever. Personally I would go with the GT3076 unless you plan to change the headgasket and bolts down the track and lean on it some more.

Mine has held 23-24psi for a while now ... GTX will be the wrong choice for your power goals as they seen to act more like a 35r than a 3076... You have so many choices of turbo for your power goals...

So a gtx3076 dose not spool as quick as a gt3076r ? It's response is more like a 35r ? Eg more laggy ? So a better choice will be a gt3076r or a gtx3071 ?

How about Bosch 1000cc injectors

Do they bolt straight in to the standard fuel rail ?

Nope, the GTX3076 was meant to be a quicker spooling turbo etc etc but it has been tried and tested and is not proving to be that way, it makes good power IF you push big boost.

The GTX3071 has had awesome results if you look up Mick_o then you will see what i mean, perfect example of a well built streeter!

You also have too take the time to check out the HG and Kando threads as well as the RB25 dyno results thread too see that Garrett is only one of the option for you.

I love my 3076 and will be staying with that size even with the upgrades.

I dont have a standard fuel rail so i cant answer that BUT i am pretty sure they do with the addition of a spacer, there is a thread on SAU about it somewhere.... I have 2000's now and they were a b**ch to fit!

My GTX3076 is nowhere near as laggy as a 35r, but the I upgraded from GTX3071 was much nicer to drive daily. It just depends what you want from your car and the sacrifices you are willing to make.

The 1000's are longer than the 2000's and should drop in, but nothing is ever easy when it comes to performance mods...

I'm guessing the GTX3076 is good for around 400kw pushed hard on e85, and the GTX3071 around 350kw, or 300 on 98.

Putting the power down is the least of your problems at 300+, there are many parts you will need to replace to reliably handle that sort of power, starting with the clutch.

I can get a brand new gtx3076 or a gtx3071 for under 1300 with out a rear housing.

I've got two garret rear housing to chose from .63 and a .82

My other option is I could just buy a core because I also have a spare front comp cover !

The turbo was a gt3040 or gt3082 but the core shit it self !

what computer are you running? if your still to get one then why not get a Hypergear turbo and adaptronic in a package...

The graph of the last Hypergear turbo looks like they would be awesome all round.

what computer are you running? if your still to get one then why not get a Hypergear turbo and adaptronic in a package...

The graph of the last Hypergear turbo looks like they would be awesome all round.

+1 For the ecu and turbo package if not yet got a ecu

my gt3076r is on it way :)
im now looking for external gate ! im also thinking of buying a hybrid performance manifold.

ill be more than happy to make 270 280 rwkw so i was thinking a 38mm waste gate

any advice would be great
thanks

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