Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't think so.

My experience is a tune from scratch is over $1k and a retune around $400

I haven't used Autotech but pick up the phone and call them. (25c) :)

Jez on the central coast is good with Nistune's and I beleive reasonable on price

I was more than happy with the nistuning autotech did on my sr20det 1600. I got PLMS to supply the nistune with a base map loaded to suit my injectors/AFM/turbo, and got autotech to do the fine tuning. From memory it was around the $400-$500 mark and netted 220rwkw @ 14psi with drivability of a factory ecu.

Also had Nistune installed and tune by Ed at Autotech. Car has done many track days and hasn't skipped a beat 215rwkw (Silvia SR20DET)

Unless your going monster power is more than adequate.

He is very expensive but still cheaper than dragging your car to Sydney to get it done.

I was more than happy with the nistuning autotech did on my sr20det 1600. I got PLMS to supply the nistune with a base map loaded to suit my injectors/AFM/turbo, and got autotech to do the fine tuning. From memory it was around the $400-$500 mark and netted 220rwkw @ 14psi with drivability of a factory ecu.

$500 for a tune? thats retune price isnt it?

would 350kw be classified as big power?

on a GTR

Edited by AnDreeZy

That's roughly what I've paid for every tune I've had done there, all have been retunes I.e. change supercharger to turbo, install bigger turbo and cams, fuel system upgrade. I guess the nistune was a retune as I was driving it for months on the base map no worries.

For my GTR i was quoted $1200 to re chip and nistune the ECU from autotech. $500 for a re tune if usually what you will pay.


$500 for a tune? thats retune price isnt it?
would 350kw be classified as big power?
on a GTR

I wouldn't classify it as "Big" power but it's a lot none the less. You don't really want much more than that for a road car. Unless you are a dyno dummy. But after that you usually have so much lagg/Too much power you lose most of the fun.

350kw on a GTR is effortless and not classified as big power.

I have a lot more than is necessary for a street car but I happen to like drag racing. Mine's also a lot more drivable than you think, you just need to go to some effort to make sure you set things up properly.

not sure how the nis tune thing works - but when it come to tuning you pay for what you get and Ed might be more pricey then others - not much - but he is worth every cent in my opinion - and has great results in a wide range of cars, engines and ecu's-

in my opinion put the extra in and go to him rather then saving a few bucks -

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...