Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys..

Pretty new to all of this audio gear in cars, so wanted some advice from you professionals :D

I have a 4 channel Pioneer amp in the boot of my car. It hasn't been attached to anything so it's just sitting free on the floor of my boot. Now as you can probably understand, I tend to enjoy at the odd time doing a bit of drifting (only in safe and controlled circumstances, of course!!! :P) and when you have an amp in the back not attached it tends to go travelling at rapid rates in the boot... Oops!

So with that in mind, I would like to know some recommended places to mount an amp in the rear of a R33 GTS-T.

I asked an audio company to mount it for me whilst they fixed part of my stereo, but all they did was screw it into the plywood cover for the spare wheel, so that didn't do much before the screws came out..

So... what have you done in the past and what have you learnt from any mistakes in mounting amps in a safe and concealed location?

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Giles

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41973-amp-mounting-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd probably get your old crappy piece of thin board out that passes as the floor (which warps when wet), buy a bit of good MDF, trace it out cut it with the jigsaw and get yourself a nice solid floor - $15 maybe. Then can just bolt it there now worries.

The other option is to build the same for the vertical battery partition thingo - that is another common mount point. Again, get some nice MDF, cut to shape, and maybe carpet it(bunnings has cheap and reasonable carpet by the metre, grey or black). Then mount your amp vertically.

Otherwise if you want to get fancy with perspex, etc you can probably either DIY with a bit of work and knowhow, otherwise call in an expert.

Thanks man.. that's exaclty the sort of suggestion i was after.

I was contemplating mounting the amp behind the scenes. That is in the backing that hides the battery, over to the right side of the boot behind that backing there seems to be a nice bit of space there that would fit an amp. The idea would be to somehow fit it there.. would involve screwing a couple of holes and bolting it down, but that way the amp would be out of sight..

is this a non-recommended practice?

I'd probably get your old crappy piece of thin board out that passes as the floor (which warps when wet), buy a bit of good MDF, trace it out cut it with the jigsaw and get yourself a nice solid floor - $15 maybe. Then can just bolt it there now worries.

The other option is to build the same for the vertical battery partition thingo - that is another common mount point. Again, get some nice MDF, cut to shape, and maybe carpet it(bunnings has cheap and reasonable carpet by the metre, grey or black). Then mount your amp vertically.  

Otherwise if you want to get fancy with perspex, etc you can probably either DIY with a bit of work and knowhow, otherwise call in an expert.

We've mounted quite a few smaller amplifiers under the floor next to the spare tire but you might have to make a new floor like the fella's have suggested. :P

You could probably mount it next to the battery under the shelf to but it's not a good idea to place the amp that close to the battery. :D

myr332:

I have two amps mounted exactly where you are thinking of putting yours (right hand side of battery, behind the scenes). It's a good spot, seems made for it if you ask me.

But i don't recommend screwing it down. I have a custom made box with one sitting on top of the other (nothing fancy). It is held down with velcro and I have it wedged in there with some foam to minimise lateral movement while going sideways :wassup:.

the side walls and floor are perfect spots.. you can kinda see them in my avatar

<<<<<<

but if you want a picture just ask

hey man... Yeah that would be brilliant if you could send me a picture. in fact a picture would really describe what everyone has been offering me, so if any of you guys (especially the bloke who mounted the amp next to the battery) have pictures of their installs, upload them!!!

thanks!!

Giles

Myr332, I've got 2 amps in my R33, one of which is sitting to the right of the battery, on top of the fuel pump. In the 2nd pic that fhrx posted, what I did is mount my amp to a small piece of mdf, then using wingnuts and washers, mount the mdf onto the bottom of the metal bracket (that holds the battery and whatnot). All I did then is put some soft foam underneath for extra support, not that you really need it.

The pic attached shows where the 2nd amp went.

  • 4 weeks later...

I mounted both of my amps on the sides of the sub box (one on each side) - with an 85 litre box, there's plenty of mounting space :D See attachment... this thing used to put out some sound for a single sub setup.

Now that I've pulled the subbie out, I just have the remaining amp screwed to the stock floor - and it's been like that for 6+ months. It's been through a full skidpan day like that, and some 'spirited' driving, and it hasn't moved a millimetre.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...