Jump to content
SAU Community

Big.end.trouble :( Help!

Jnrb89

By Jnrb89,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jnrb89 Apprentice

Jnrb89

Posted
Posted

Hi guys any advice appreciated!

Bought car with 170000k's, FMIC'd, cheap turbo, bigger radiator, nistune'd ecu, splitfires, swaybars, 2 way diff etc, drove car for 6months without issue, eventually got a small noise which got worse with time and heat, eventually 'blew up' cruising on highway with abnormally high oil temp, massive internal knocking sort of noise from engine, key off & coast to stop, tow truck, home to cry. Engine will start but it sounds that bad you dont even want to put your head near the engine bay. I believe i've spun a bearing in a rod but am unsure?

This car was not babied and I am not suprised something has broken, just after the best way to go about fixing it.

I've purchased an RB25DE NEO for $1350 from an engine import shop in Brisbane in late January (business name withheld atm), I still have the receipt, and have not removed engine from crate it was delivered on.

I asked for an RB25DET NEO and was sent an RB25DE NEO. I only found out today as i had a mate take delivery. They have a 7 day return policy (it took 4 days to get delivered!) and will not take the engine back as he keeps telling me I asked for a non turbo'd engine. This is a complete lie. All he would do is give me $1250 store credit towards a turbo'd RB25DET NEO (for $3000).

What do you guys suggest i do? Is it possible to unbolt sump off both engines and swap crank, rods and pistons after machining? Or should i fix my engine? What parts exactly will need machining? Whats a natro 25 worth from a private seller?

ALL REPLIES GREATLY APPRECIATED! :)

post-95498-0-30236300-1360572393_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419755-bigendtrouble-help/
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
Jnrb89 Apprentice

Jnrb89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is it bad form to post on old topics?

Just wanted to get back to sau and say i've successfully put all my turbo gear on the DE and it works really well. Timing had to be pulled and fuel added via nistune due to a knock but otherwise i'm really happy with how its ended up!

I do however still have a small intermitant problem. Randomly sometimes when I stop and idle I get oil smoke out of exhaust, sometimes its a fair bit too and can be fairly embarrassing! Decel in gear seems to make this worse?however sometimes i can compression brake down massive hill and come to a stop and the exhaust is perfectly clear!

Intake side cam cover is the DE one. Is the PCV system different on the DE from the DET? The turbo is new so don't tell me its leaking out the exhaust side!

Thanks for any input guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...