Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

@ Mark - here was my previous GT3071 setup revved to 8,000rpm so 4,000rpm would be around 112klms

Dyno11.jpg

Did the S15 have a 5 speed box in it?

If the gearing etc is the same that makes GTScoTT's GTX3071R capable of 20psi < 4000rpm - which is really quite impressive :)

Just picked up the car. Haven't had a chance to go for a proper drive yet, but here's the dyno plot:

post-83859-0-80387900-1404295174_thumb.jpg

Boost is both lower and later than I was expecting. I got the impression talking to Josh that they didn't quite solve the boost issue they were having. He mentioned potentially using a different rated actuator spring to improve things (currently 10psi).

Very happy with the quality of the install they've done though. They really took the effort to keep the stock / black theme, and using quality fittings for things like BOV return. Can post up pics if anyone is interested.

Hmm it's strange that it's coming on that late, looking at the curve it doesn't look to be a boost control thing to me. You are running Nistune? Is VCT being used?

That boost curve doesn't look like it is necessarily using the full potential of the turbo but as you mentioned, good chance the actuator is making it impossible to go any further. It's decent power for the boost through, I reckon - and while in the range of what seemed doable there could be a bit more in it with a stiffer actuator.

Let us know how it drives when you get more of a chance! Be interested in how quickly and easily it comes on, the curve makes it look no better than my old GT3076R which doesn't really make sense, I am assuming there is more than meets he eye going on there.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

post-83859-0-94056400-1404296609_thumb.jpg

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

That comparison looks a heap better when comparing apples for apples. So is your Nistune setup running VCT? If that's not with VCT and there is more boost available then the result starts seeming a lot more understandable. Driving (ie, response) should give a fair bit more of an impression of how well it works :)

Thanks for keeping us updated through it all!

I have the Z32 ECU with Nistune so should still have VCT.

Aiming to get a decent drive in on the weekend, but power does feel great when it comes on. But impossible for me to gauge how it is compared to other setups except stock.

OK, interesting.

When you drove it did it feel conspiciously laggier than the stock turbo? A typical "full boost at 3750rpm" combo would feel very noticeable. Maybe we should just let you get the weekend and have a proper go? :D

Perth dyno's always read lower :whistling:

Yep just throw more boost into it once the control issue is sorted.....as it one thing the GTX's seem to thrive on.

Please post up pics.

Edited by juggernaut1

I thought the z32 ecu needs an additional window switch to control the vct.

Mat only very recently added vct control to the z32 ecu's. I would look into whet you actually have it or not.

A quick way would be disconnect vct plug and go for a drive. If it's the same you need to get it working.

Contact matt at nistune about the update.

  • Like 1

Yep. I got z32 and r32 confused!

Still worth checking as I mentioned.

Sounds easy enough to check. I assume it won't hurt anything if unplugged?

Lith, it definitely feels laggier than stock turbo. Need to get out on the weekend when less traffic around so I can try and get a better feel of when boost builds. I will say though that it feels like it ramps up real quick, whereas on dyno plot looks like more of a gentle increase.

Josh did mention that PZP's dyno tends to read low, but I'm not going to put any stock in that unless I can confirm somewhere else.

Can I also get some advice from you guys? I was told that to make use of higher boost, I really needed to look into freeing up flow more (cams, cam gears, and possibly freer exhaust). I was told the turbo actually has quite a bit more to give seeing as GTX series like higher boost, but couldn't get there without these changes. Does that sound right?

Definitely won't damage anything driving with the vct plug unplugged.

I wouldn't think cams are the best use of money at this stage.

Cam gears perhaps, but the dyno time to dial them in might not be worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...