Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not a diet expert.

There are many that are that you can find on the net.

But if you want my opinion in it's simplest form.

animals and vegetables = 90%

wheat/grain related stuff = 10%

beef, lamb, chicken, fish, pork (if you are an infidel), turk3y, roo, emu etc etc

vegetables of all colours.. the more colours the better.

the way you described the pizza and wrap make them sound much better than how I pictured them initally.

If you are happy with your diet, then fine.

But if you are hitting a platue, it will most likely be diet or rest related.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would say my diet may be a touch carb heavy some times but is otherwise not bad, I think sleep is a big part, but honestly how can you make yourself sleep better.

I've started going to bed earlier but my real issue is waking up repeatedly be it from temp or being uncomfortable.

Just reading about that, cheers for the suggestion.

Anyone here have experience with it? Supp for more naturally occurring?

A quick read shows foods only contain low amounts.

Its unfair to call it a diet, its just crap he shoves in his mouth

Tolga is a young Markos lol

He too will one day learn the term "wasting your time"

But for now, he needs to experience this

Amusing thread

I was waiting for you to pop in, I just thought you'd have more to add lol

I'll admit I do not follow a strict eating regime, I just try and be mindful of fats and sugars, don't eat too much or too little. As I said earlier, I'm not out to set the weight lifting world on fire. I'm not sure I need to be too hardcore to get what I'm after, but perhaps my goals are much further down the ladder than others.

I'd of thought the preference would be that someone puts it all out there, takes the advice on board and looks to do it better, rather than having another person doing it wrong, or worse, telling others that what they do is right/better when it's not.

Give me some credit :D

Edited by ActionDan

ok serious response.

you have hit a platue where you can bench 87kg for 3 sets of 8, but when you do 88kg, you get 2 sets of 8 and 2 set of 7 right?

this is your platue?

do 88kg for 2 sets.

then wait 3 minutes and do the last set.

problem solved.

your platue isn't really a platue of strength, it's more about recovery in between sets.

just rest more man.... you're at home anyway, not like someones going to come up and ask if you've finished curling in the squat rack.

other choices.

reduce the weight to 80kg and do 10-12 reps

increase the weight to 90 and do 5 reps

increase it to 100 and do 1 or 2 reps.

then after a few weeks go back to 88kg and do 3 x 8 with your designated rest times (which you seem to find important)

The designated rest times are only "important" because I like to not be in the gym foreve. 60-70mins is already enough, I'd be happier with 50-60 which I'd say is do-able with that different routine as there's less time wasted moving plates.

I can work around the bench "plateau" so to speak, but it'll all go out the window next week when I give this different routine a whirl, even if it turns out not to be for me, still better than lifting zero.

Curling in the squat rack, god damn lol that comes up in every pet peeves at the gym thread ever.

Seems there's more issues with the routine that just my recovery times, so I'll mix it up and try some new things, I'm old enough now that if I go a bit backwards in numbers for a bit that's fine with me.

I train at home too mate.

Here is what I have.

1 x shitty "ol Rusty" power cage.

1 x budget olympic barbell

1 x shitty adjustble bench (this is really shitty and will be replaced with a simple flat bench soon)

Lots x weight plates of varying sizes.

all sits outside under the patio.

All get used and abused nightly.

If there is an exercise that I can do on there, it's not worth doing.

No dumbbells, no cables, no bros.

That routine that Brids pasted is one that Markos put together as a "beginners program" some years back.

nothing magical about it. MATE where is this?? hehe.

What approach are people taking to deloading in terms of frequency.

I always get sucked into thinking one more session then I'll take a break but it never happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...