Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m stripping the donor car that I just purchased. It has 150K on the clock. It doesn’t run, so parts are as is and I think the prices should reflect this.

Note: I’m keeping the engine and a few ancillaries. I’ve listed what I’ve removed from the car so far. The rest is up for grabs, but it will take some time to remove the remaining parts.

Location and conditions: Prefer pickup for larger items, but shipping can be arranged a buyer’s cost.


I’m in Kinglake and can bring to work with me at Mulgrave if you want to collect during the day.


Contact: Jack on 0401994746, or PM me


Item: Standard exhaust from dump rearwards with canon muffler attached

Condition: Few scratches, but seems in OK condition - meh, it’s an exhaust!

Price: $80

Item: Standard radiator with shroud. Has oil transmission in/out bungs

Condition: Second hand, Fins look OK, it has a few dings as you would expect. Looks OK to me. As is.

Price: $80

Item: AC condenser, compressor, cannister and piping

Condition: Second hand, as is

Price: $80

Item: Standard intercooler with shroud, mounts, all hoses, clamps, piping

Condition: Pretty good nick, I reckon.

Price: $100

Item: Auto diff & cross member with Hicas attached

Condition: Hasn’t been run up, so I can’t vouch for its operation

Price: $100


Item: Front bumper

Condition: Gun metal grey, definitely needs a sand/spray

Price: $90

Item: Rear bumper with side pods

Condition: Maroon (wine red?), will need a spray

Price: $90

Item: Bonnet

Condition: Silver, previous owner sanded it and left it that way – so will need painting

Price: $50


Item: Spoiler

Condition: Maroon (wine red?), looks OK

Price: $50

Item: Left and right electric mirrors

Condition: White – looks unpainted. Can’t test them, but look in newish condition

Price: $100

Item: Standard intake hose with piping attached

Condition: Looks in good condition

Price: $80


Item: Set of genuine Skyline mats, including the transmission tunnel mat

Condition: Used, but scrub up OK

Price: $100

Item: Pair of tail lights

Condition: Maroon (wine red?), average condition

Price: $50


Item: Pair of S1 head lights

Condition: Average condition & a bit hazy, but can be polished up as per the countless threads on how to restore headlights

Price: $90

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420596-stripping-r33-gtst-s1-auto-in-vic/
Share on other sites

Do you have the passenger side inner guard lining? The front piece. Although both sides would be handy. Also do you have the under engine tray?

Do you have the passenger side inner guard lining? The front piece. Although both sides would be handy. Also do you have the under engine tray?

I assume you mean the front passenger inner guard lining? and the engine tray between the radiator and engine? Then yes I do. The drivers side inner lining is stuffed though.

has the box had any work done mate? also.. how much for afm and ecu?

dunno whether the box has had any work. Haven't pulled it out yet.

AFM and ECU pricing in a PM to you.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...