Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok car was goin perfect but yesterday morning it suddenly had like no power when i accelerated, it would do the turbo wind up and all but just no power, later the car went weird wouldnt rev past 3.5 rpm, smoke coming out exhaust, hunting idle, misfiring. I replaced spark plugs, tested coils (splitfires), check aac valve, check for vacuum leaks checked maf, checked intercooler.. Things done before prob i adjusted boost and put 20 dollars prem fuel in car.... Please help im seriously stumped car has fc commander, splitfire coils, stock bov, pod filter etc. 1994 r33 manuel

Edited by Nige1

I'm having the same sort of problem, car won't idle, misfires, heaps of black smoke. I haven't even tried to drive it, won't hold revs. The day before i took the coil packs out and taped them up, to fix a miss at boost, which it did fix. gave it a bit of a hiding and the next day it wouldn't run. just put a brand new set of yellow jackets in there, changed plugged, can't find any cooler leaks or vaccuum leaks. cleaned the maf

just about ready to try get it towed to a mechanic

I know what you mean, mine drives rough when it hits 3.5 rpm it starts misfiring hard and revving out and the idles fine until i rev it then it goes to stall but regains it self idles shit for a few seconds thn kinda goes bak to alright but not fully

have you checked it....im assuming a Z32? from what your saying it seems like it could be playing up causing your car to over fuel (at a guess). Start there! try cleaning it. Try disconnecting it when the car is idling there will be tell tale signs. If you have a spare or know someone try replacing it...

Me and mate have narrowed it to either afm, bad petrol or the fc commander.... Does this sound possible??

my guess is AFM sending incorrect voltages to the ECU causing the car to over fuel/under fuel! i have had similar issues with a Z32 in the past (or AFM in general)

Edited by Frosty

you sure you havnt got a vacumn leak? Ive found with mine that raising the boost is blowing out the intake manifold gasket, when that happens its either too lean or too rich, runs rough

I put boost down to low after tht but prob still there

get a can of wd or crc and put the straw tip on, then try spraying round the intake manifold gaskets and bov while its running

if it starts reacting then its confirmed, and check the clamps are tight

Edited by AngryRBGTX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...