Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Question

Nige1

By Nige1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nige1 Enthusiast

Nige1

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i know this is bit of a hard one but does anyone have a guide for all the correc timing for r33, i wanna check mine and see if it normal. Also is 7/11 dodgy for fuel i put some in and my car just went shit idleing, smoke, not revving past 3 rpm but after injector cleaner it seems okay but engine lights still on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420869-timing-question/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The only timing you need to be concerned about is base timing at idle. In general, the ECU expects the engine to idle with timing around 15BTDC. It assumes that this is set correctly, and all other timing is based on base idle timing being correct.

As for the dodgy fuel, if you filled up shortly after they received a delivery, then you might have got some crap that was stirred up during the tanker filling the underground tank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420869-timing-question/#findComment-6770487
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Not entirely true. The timing at idle will change. You need to disconnect the TPS (from memory) on r33's to put it in base idle and it should sit at the base timing then. As long as your idle isn't going nuts it should be fine. 15 degrees is what it needs to be set to

If you have a STD ecu then it takes care of the rest. If not you will need to take it to a tuner to get the timing modified

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420869-timing-question/#findComment-6770617
Share on other sites
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Also is 7/11 dodgy for fuel i put some in and my car just went shit idleing, smoke, not revving past 3 rpm but after injector cleaner it seems okay but engine lights still on

Sounds like you have AFM issues. Check the AFM plug. Do you have an oiled air filter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420869-timing-question/#findComment-6770684
Share on other sites
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Cleaned it, cleane plugs i dont know how to resolder it and i cant get the top off

Found this ------------>>> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/?hl=resolder#entry3274027

It's for RB26 MAFs but it should help. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420869-timing-question/#findComment-6771103
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Nah, I definitely do that kind of stuff with my car. I do drive it around as a daily! It's just that mindset about building a car to actually still use/retain it's function as a car is rare. If you modify your car into a weekender, IMO you've ruined 5/7ths of the fun. It should remain fun to do daily errands in.
×
×
  • Create New...