Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the best with the electrical side of things but sounds like you should get a new relay and try that they're only $15-$20 for a 30amp horn relay. It should be normally open which means no circuit until the switching wire(from the ECU) triggers it to form the circuit. hook it up the way it's been explained and that'll tell you whether thats the problem. It's now a process of elimintaion so write a list of things to check and cross each one off when you've checked it.

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

Ok cheers for the info, sounds like this is the way to go. Fingers crossed it solves my problem... cars huh :P

and when you get the relay ask for a wiring harness for it makes it a lot easier it cost me about $50 all up including a new soldering iron. car are a love and hate relationship

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

yeah thats what im thinking...just hardwire it from scratch...

Correct me if im wrong BUT doesnt blue smoke generally indicate the engine burning excessive oil or oil entering your exhaust e.g blown turbo

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Edited by GTS 221

that's the love of cars mate you need to research look up stuff on google go to the local mechanic shop ask questions. I'm a bricklayer by trade and now try to go everything on my cars even tort myself to aliminium weld to get stuff done. my advise try it yourself if you stuff up you will learn by your mistakes

A quick check of the Commo wiring diagram shows its fuel pump relay is a positive trigger from the ecu, Skyline (pin 18) is negative.

Multi meter will soon sort out the problem and another relay.

Commo also has the oil pressure switch fuel pump safety cut out, so that circuitry should also be investigated.

If you want a legal and safe conversion, you never run a fuel pump without some sort of safety cut out.

85 connect to ign 12v switched

86 connect to pin 18 on the ECU header or ECU fuel pump output

30 is a fused power supply from the battery

87 is wired to the positive side of the pump

This is the correct safe way of doing it.

Edited by RRob

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Are you from Melbourne/did you buy the original RB/VP from a guy from Sydney? If so the car belonged to someone I knew, and wasn't treated very best. Ran on 5 cylinders a lot (bad AFM), never serviced, etc. After the car was written off, he did a few burnouts on the lawn (cold motor). Not trying to upset anyone, but yeah. Worth putting new rings and bearings in at least.

And for the haters - fantastic sleeper. Boring white VP commodore combined with ZUTUTU. I wouldn't do it myself, but it sorta opened my eyes...

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...