Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the best with the electrical side of things but sounds like you should get a new relay and try that they're only $15-$20 for a 30amp horn relay. It should be normally open which means no circuit until the switching wire(from the ECU) triggers it to form the circuit. hook it up the way it's been explained and that'll tell you whether thats the problem. It's now a process of elimintaion so write a list of things to check and cross each one off when you've checked it.

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

Ok cheers for the info, sounds like this is the way to go. Fingers crossed it solves my problem... cars huh :P

and when you get the relay ask for a wiring harness for it makes it a lot easier it cost me about $50 all up including a new soldering iron. car are a love and hate relationship

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

yeah thats what im thinking...just hardwire it from scratch...

Correct me if im wrong BUT doesnt blue smoke generally indicate the engine burning excessive oil or oil entering your exhaust e.g blown turbo

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Edited by GTS 221

that's the love of cars mate you need to research look up stuff on google go to the local mechanic shop ask questions. I'm a bricklayer by trade and now try to go everything on my cars even tort myself to aliminium weld to get stuff done. my advise try it yourself if you stuff up you will learn by your mistakes

A quick check of the Commo wiring diagram shows its fuel pump relay is a positive trigger from the ecu, Skyline (pin 18) is negative.

Multi meter will soon sort out the problem and another relay.

Commo also has the oil pressure switch fuel pump safety cut out, so that circuitry should also be investigated.

If you want a legal and safe conversion, you never run a fuel pump without some sort of safety cut out.

85 connect to ign 12v switched

86 connect to pin 18 on the ECU header or ECU fuel pump output

30 is a fused power supply from the battery

87 is wired to the positive side of the pump

This is the correct safe way of doing it.

Edited by RRob

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Are you from Melbourne/did you buy the original RB/VP from a guy from Sydney? If so the car belonged to someone I knew, and wasn't treated very best. Ran on 5 cylinders a lot (bad AFM), never serviced, etc. After the car was written off, he did a few burnouts on the lawn (cold motor). Not trying to upset anyone, but yeah. Worth putting new rings and bearings in at least.

And for the haters - fantastic sleeper. Boring white VP commodore combined with ZUTUTU. I wouldn't do it myself, but it sorta opened my eyes...

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
×
×
  • Create New...