Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the Car does NOT come from Japan with baby seat mounts. They need to be added here locally as part of the compiance process.

There are hooks in the floor of the boot but these are for tie downs for the luggage are and are not suitable for baby mounts.

There are 2 methods of putting in the baby seat mounts. They are always put in the roof above the boot and can be in either;

1) Just in front of the plastic trim at the top of the boot opening, (best method)

2) mounted through the plastic trim at the top of the boot opening, (this is where they drill through the outside of the car)

The 1st method is far superior but requires them to separate the roof lining slightly to put the mounting points in.

Ok cool, thanks.

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm quite sure that Ben didn't have to drill any holes in my car, the only hole he drilled was through the plastic for the anchor to sit on the plastic trim.

20130315_125508_zps54b4e0de.jpg

2013-03-15125455_zps35de9b5e.jpg

:wub: Love the way Northshore do the anchor points.

:/ Mine came through a brilliant broker but a compliance shop that showed no love >_<

Strange the cars don't already come with anchor points??

They do have anchor points that are argueably better than the Australian standard. They are the ISO anchors at the back of the lower part of the seat behind the plastic covers. These anchor points connect directly to baby seats and hold the baby seat securely. (no stupid straps around the car)

But as normal, Australian Beaurcrats know more about safety than the rest of the world and we have our own SPECIAL standard.

Just make sure you have windscreen replacement in it. Its a b@tch if you dont and crack a windscreen

They sure do. I have it on my car with them. This is the best money you will ever spend if you get a smashed window on one of these cars

They do have anchor points that are argueably better than the Australian standard. They are the ISO anchors at the back of the lower part of the seat behind the plastic covers. These anchor points connect directly to baby seats and hold the baby seat securely. (no stupid straps around the car)

But as normal, Australian Beaurcrats know more about safety than the rest of the world and we have our own SPECIAL standard.

QFT

Even the Volvo specific system which is touted as the safest in the world IIRC doesnt meet our backwards stds.

They do have anchor points that are argueably better than the Australian standard. They are the ISO anchors at the back of the lower part of the seat behind the plastic covers. These anchor points connect directly to baby seats and hold the baby seat securely. (no stupid straps around the car)

But as normal, Australian Beaurcrats know more about safety than the rest of the world and we have our own SPECIAL standard.

Too right Andy, the ISOFIX system is head & shoulders above ours!

Of course, then the gold digging Australian child restraint manufacturers would have to compete with overseas manufacturers on a level playing field instead of having a captive market to milk.

Heh, my car is insured with NRMA for around what they quoted you, but in my mums name. I did the maths and found even if it was in my name with excesses and premium it would work out to be cheaper under my mums name even if I'm not listed as a driver even if I have an accident.

I recently got off my P's without any fines, demerits or infringements and still got quoted quite high, something like $2200. They also add excesses on top of that if I make a claim, go figure...

Edited by M35woah

Heh, my car is insured with NRMA for around what they quoted you, but in my mums name. I did the maths and found even if it was in my name with excesses and premium it would work out to be cheaper under my mums name even if I'm not listed as a driver even if I have an accident.

I recently got off my P's without any fines, demerits or infringements and still got quoted quite high, something like $2200. They also add excesses on top of that, go figure...

I'd be very careful with that.

If you are involved in an accident, and they deem you a regular driver but are not listed; they will void the policy.

The reason they quote high is because statistically, as a young driver; you are a high risk. Irrespective of your personal record.

It's part of life; I just refuse to use the companies now that ripped me off as a young driver.

They clamour for your business once you own a house, contents and a couple of cars...

When they ask what they can do to get my business; I tell them to apologise for being such arseholes when I was younger.

Now I just use Shannons.

Edited by Daleo

I'd be very careful with that.

If you are involved in an accident, and they deem you a regular driver but are not listed; they will void the policy.

The reason they quote high is because statistically, as a young driver; you are a high risk. Irrespective of your personal record.

It's part of life; I just refuse to use the companies now that ripped me off as a young driver.

They clamour for your business once you own a house, contents and a couple of cars...

When they ask what they can do to get my business; I tell them to apologise for being such arseholes when I was younger.

Now I just use Shannons.

NRMA will cover anyone that drives the car even if they are not listed, I double checked before I took the policy. It's just higher excesses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
×
×
  • Create New...