Jump to content
SAU Community

Yellow Jackets Fail.

Nutsrb
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Just curious if anyone else has had a bad batch of yellowjackets?

Other mates use them no dramas, but on my car I have had 2x died already. I replaced one with a brand single yellowjacket a few months ago, and now another one has just died.

I don't want to replace this one, and have another die on me.. and by the time I know it I would have gone through all 6 lol.

I've e-mailed performance-wise he might be able to help

  • 3 weeks later...
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

The number of failed yellow jackets I have seen in entry level Motorsport events is amazing. Neumerouse power levels and configurations. I'm getting sick off pulling my stock coils out and swapping to prove a point to the people that say " I only just brought them they couldn't be stuffed"

My advice is to just fit brand new oem items as they are a similar price to yellow jackets anyway.

d_liberate Collaborator

d_liberate

Posted
Posted

I've done the same kilometres on my car with Yellow Jackets without issue.

Had mine in my old car (Stagea) for around 3-4 years and they did around 80K kms with no issues at all.

I put some in my R34 GTR (same type of coils) about 6 months ago and have done around 15K. so far so good.

Id rather purchase a genuine product from a reputable trader that offers a good long local warranty than some fly by night ebay scammer selling fake OEMs.

Anyone on here had to make a warranty claim on these coils with performance wise? How was the experience?

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Id rather purchase a genuine product from a reputable trader that offers a good long local warranty than some fly by night ebay scammer selling fake OEMs.

Anyone on here had to make a warranty claim on these coils with performance wise? How was the experience?

You are obviously speaking from experience with the ebay oem coils?

Edited by StevenCJR31
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Id rather purchase a genuine product from a reputable trader that offers a good long local warranty than some fly by night ebay scammer selling fake OEMs.

Anyone on here had to make a warranty claim on these coils with performance wise? How was the experience?

You are obviously speaking from experience with the ebay oem coils?

deadset simple, Paul was willing to help. Mine were out of warranty and I had no receipt, but he was more than happy to give me a new one at a heavily discounted price

  • 2 months later...
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted

Just went to out my yellow jackets on today and I thought I could just remove old OEM ones and put these ones in sweet as.. But no..

The plug at the top is different to what's on my loom.. And it won't push in.. :( gay

Do I need an adaptor or something?

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you have ordered the wrong type for your car maybe?

Whats your car and which YJs did you order?

Well they were with the car I didn't purchase them myself. I was told they were for an rb20det. They look exactly like an OEM rb20det coilpack (apart from the colour obviously)

The only difference is my rb20 plugs that go into the top of the coilpack have holes like this _ _ _ but the yellow jacket plug on the coilpack is | | |

I'm talking about the metal bits inside the plug.

I'm not aware what you get in the pack, box was unopened and brand new.

x6 yellow jacket coilpacks

x6 random little black clips

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
Posted

You have the wrong coil packs to suit your car. The ones you have are for the early model RB20 from R31s etc...

Whats the part number on the blue YJ box? Is it YJ-RB20313233?

The coils you need are YJ-RB202526-S1

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted

You have the wrong coil packs to suit your car. The ones you have are for the early model RB20 from R31s etc...

Whats the part number on the blue YJ box? Is it YJ-RB20313233?

The coils you need are YJ-RB202526-S1

Wow... Yeah wrong ones.. Only reason I went to change is because I have the 5000rpm missfire problem and I can't see any cracks on my old OEM ones and have no idea how to tape them.

I took today off cause I can't get to work.. Looks like I'm off for a week until I get this crap sorted :(

  • 3 weeks later...
jiri styles Enthusiast

jiri styles

Posted
Posted

ive been using yellow jackets on my rb25 running 370hp, been drifting with the car and normal driving ect ect even on very hot days, they run great so far.. my brother also has some on his sr20 running over 300 hp and no issues.. i am really happy with the yellow jackets for sure :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...