Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Absolutely No Accessory Power

Traah221

By Traah221,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Traah221 Contributor

Traah221

Posted
Posted

Title says it all, guys. Recently swapped in a Series I Rb25DET, it runs well enough, but I'll be damned if I can't get any of my accessory power to work.

Inoperative items include:

- Gauge Cluster

- Rear lights (Brake, Running, etc)

- Turn Signals (Front and Rear)

- Interior Lights

- Accessories (A/C, heat, power windows, etc)

Items still functioning:

- Headlights

- Radio and Speakers

I'm kind of burnt out and at a complete loss. It's not exactly legal to drive around as it were, so getting these things back would be most appreciated. I figure there is a sole cause for pretty much all of these, hopefully someone else has encountered this random issue.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
Posted

Oi man had identical problem with my 32 and i mean IDENTICAL. Ur windows probably don't work either ?i also kept blowing the accessories fuse. In my case i slammed it in reverse too had and the speed sensor plug fell out of the gear box. All that had to be done was plug it back in. Just look on the drivers side of the gear box and see if there's a loose plug or something like that.

Traah221 Contributor

Traah221

Posted
  • Author
Posted

040122, Crawled around the gearbox for awhile, but no joy on anything unplugged or loose. Since I was using the cruddy screw-jack from a friends car, I couldn't get very far under it to look up higher. It's sad I have to ask, but I want to eliminate every possibility, where exactly on the gearbox is the plug located, just so I can be doubly certain?

Also, thanks a million for the input!

040122 Collaborator

040122

Posted
Posted

Well if its an rb20 gearbox then it should be on the drivers side of the box, bout half way between the top and bottom.....i think, it was easier for me as i have a pit, just got in there with a torch. Are u blowing the accessories fuse? Check that n maybe Google speed sensor for rb. My power steering also screwed up with all those other symtons . Ps replacing the blown fuse won't fix it until after the sensor is fixed.

  • 2 weeks later...
Traah221 Contributor

Traah221

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright, I lifted her up and poked around the gearbox, no plugs hanging, all accounted for. So, I started checking everything for continuity back with a Multimeter, and I found my problem. I'm sort of embarrassed to admit this, really, but it was a very stupid oversight. I had compared my bay fusebox with every other R32 on base here, GTS-t, GTS-4, GTRs, all of them run with no 75A Main Fuse. Apparently, for reasons I don't want to look into, I do need that 75A Main, because I bridged it with a bit of speaker wire and, lo and behold, all my accessories work fine. Thanks for all the input, though, I really appreciate the friendly help!

  • 6 years later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...